brother_david

And alittle bit of yesterdays work in progress, RB31DETT:

Sounds great, a medium-sized stone just fell off my shest, thanks mate! Atleast now i can leave that part out of the equation if the engine wont start

I have an R33 GTST Series 1 and a R32 igniter pack, the loom is R33 GTST. The connectors are the same BUT i havent had the opportunity to try them out, hoping its the same internals!

1. Since its a RB25 head, and RB25 bolts and the 'weakest' part of the bolt is the nut, since the bolt has got more threads holding it down in the block, i would go for the RB25-RB25 settings. 2. Ill recommend 1.5mm front and rear, might even think of blocking the rear one, popular to do to get right oil pressure but thats more on RB26 heads that only have one oil channel to the head. Take a search in the RB30 conversion-thread, dont remember the details but its in there somewhere, just search for restrictors. Good thing you got the oil crank collar. 7. Yea sorry about that mate, ofcourse you would want to get it as low as needed to close the bonnet but still keep in mind the clearance between the sump and crossmember

1. The ARP bolts should be tensioned to 108.5 NM, all done i three steps, i.e. 35, 80 and 108.5 -You might also want to loosen them up to 3 times before started for the first time, to get perfect tension across the head, thats what we do on our builds. Also it is recommended to do this atleast once after you have driven the car for acouple of weeks, aluminium is a living material. 2. What oilpump are you using? 3. It said to be needed to grind a small piece of the block.. 4. Im using a RB30 sump, no problem with clearance! 5. Yes. 6. Probably not, the engine is 38mm taller and it wont come down that much before the sump hits the crossmember, BUT im not sure! 7. Wouldnt that be the reason for lowering the engine Actually, a known construction fact is that alittle angle is needed to get the correct tension on parts but its abit much if you dont change the mounts Hope that helps, i might be wrong on some part but i think i've covered the morepart of it! /Dave

The results:

Might have solved the problem! Im using universal rubber mounts with an offset of the bolts of about 40mm, bolted straight in. Might make a spacer for the LHS engine bracket since the engine is leaning a bit and he bolt and bolthole doesnt flat out Anyways, the engine is in place and i can start with the exhaust manifolds!! Yeeeaaay BTW, the rubber mounts costs 10 AUD/piece

Thanks for your help! Ye i was really fussed about what brackets to use with what mounts TiTAN> I can see you have a R33 GTS-30T in your info, so you say that i can/should use the factory R33 GTST engine bracketes and mounts?

All help is appreciated! Heres 2 pics of how the brackets and mounts look, have i missed some part?

Im just about to fit my 26/30 in the engine bay of my R33 GTST. The steel engine mount brackets i got with the block doesnt line up with the RB25 rubber mounts in the bay though :S I feel really stupid here but anyway, it seems like the angle of the brackets is a bit to much and they just seem like they should sit closer further ack on the block Also if someone got pics of their mounts i would be glad! /Dave

As the title states, does the R32 GTR and (R33) RB25DET Series 1 have interchangeable Igniter packs? The RB25 loom connectors fits straight up to the igniterpack. Thanks Dave

Guess he isnt the Veilside-type, IMO they've made some wicked kits, Fortune's for example but they're always taking a walk on the edge

Thanks for the comments guys! Been looking for other wheels, or paint them, and some other mods to do but havent quite yet decided what yet, might leave it as is Putting all the money and energy in the engine right now, tends to become expensive :S Have had alot of comments from friends about the airbrushed rust and its really 50/50 if it looks good or bad!

Mine

... when you park and you realize that 50% of the cars in the parking lot are actually Skylines too. Atleast starting to be in my town

Not jealous at all that my ex works at a hotel where these shots are taken...

I sorta understand what you meen.. I too have a grudge against new cars, and i meen ALL new cars, getting to high-tech, the mechanical era is gone i guess but hopefully itll sort itself same way as going from carb's to the ECU controlling it all and us actually tinkering with its settings Imagine the first reactions back then But implementing to much electronic 'help' is not the way to go in my opinion, its just asking for more problems and huge bills getting them sorted!

Is it the same thing recomended for the RB26 head? Fitting an elbow at the back of the head and running it to the sump to keep the head from filling up with oil? Seen in this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Id...html&hl=oil

Not a problem, you were crystal clear Im keeping the AAC but skipping the pre-heating part, also heard from several mates that they've taken away that part on their Nissan, BMW etc etc Thanks again mate!

It would have been so much easier if you said that i could easily do without it Specially since im going to run ethanol and 1600cc's, sounds like i should be ready to get me one if its gives me a hazzle starting it cold

Without actually providing you with any "Yes/No" i have a hard time seeing it working since its for the NEO-engine

Been covered in another part of the forum

Thanks mate! Guess ill be skipping this one if it only has to do with preheating the AAC since i want to keep the engine as 'bare' as possible

Hi, im building a RB30/26DETT with the RB26 intake manifold. I've kept the IAA/AAC valve unit from my RB25 and was thinking of using that instead of buying the whole rb26 unit. Now i need help identifying a certain part, its placed on the hose running from the AAC unit to the intake also if its needed for it to work! I havent still got the RB25, sold it a while ago without thinking i neede anything else off of it :S Hope you can help me with this, heres the part

Hi, im building a RB30/26DETT with the RB26 intake manifold. I've kept the IAA or AAC valve unit from my RB25 and was thinking of using that instead of buying the whole rb26 unit. Now i need help identifying a certain part, its placed on the hose running from the AAC unit to the intake also if its needed for it to work! I havent still got the RB25, sold it a while ago without thinking i neede anything else off of it :S Hope you can help me with this, heres the part