brother_david

Hope someone can help me with this one! Just got a offer of custom built high quality connecting rods for a really good price, since its a huge order placed, 58 conrods so far If i know the exact dimensions of my rb30 conrods i can get customs built for the same low price, but the only problem is i dont know the dimensions; length, width, big end size, pin end size. Came across these in a thread from 2005: 6.00" length 2.015" big end (no bearings fitted) 0.867" Pin size 0.888" Pin bore 0.944" width 3/8" bolts But no one has yet confirmed these, so i dont know if these are actually correct Can someone please help me with this one?

Bought my block from them, not a problem at all, very nice and helpful guys! Not even a problem having it shipped on a pallet halfway around the world, since i live in Sweden

Im sorry but i havent got the VIN for this car, its a customers, but its a R34 GTT with snapped rear wheel studs Would really appreciate if you could find the rear wheel stud VIN for it!

As far as i reckon you should aim for 13.5 when coming on boost, appaerently its supposed to give the best pressure raise :S Its what i run and works great, other then that i run 15.2-15.3 at cruise and about 12 at full boost

In the RB26 head seen from the cylinder up; first the valve, then the vavle spring around it, sitting on top of the valve is a shim for the correct clearance, on top of that the lifter to take the hit from the cam knuckle Very straight forward, standard design. In the RB25 you've got the hydralic lifters with all-in one-design instead BTW the rb25 have got smaller diameter valves, guess you know this already!

Thanks for your votes guys! I was wondering how that 'Other' looked, looks really cool IMHO! Kind of involved my sister in this, as i asked her what she thought since she isnt really into the whole car-world. She looked at me as if i was stupid when i presented the factory-style.. Leans towards show for the moment but if i go factory ill definetly paint the covers in Millenium Jade or GTR-red

Myself im into stupid builds I love building engines etc without any real reason, as my last RB31DETT with 2x550hp turbos without any actual goal, but i dont really get the deal here.. Do you wanna use your RB26 block and stroke it with new conrods, pistons etc. . Or do you wanna use the RB30 crank in the 26 block, cause then theres a thread in the RB30 conversions-forum youll find intresting. Other then that RIPS is developing a RB33 (3,3 litre) kit for the RB30..' BTW, search for OS Giken 3.0 .. ..

Hi! Im about to build an RB30/26DETT in my series 1 R33 GTST and since the engine is out i thought it would be a good time to sort out the look of the engine bay Now i need your help to decide how it should look! The car has got +35mm wider rear fender (gtr-style) and +25mm wider front fenders with vents on the side and towards the doors. Its got Millenium Jade-paint, with acouple of rusty screwheads airbrushed (car looks gray in the pic). A few ideas i've thought of is ofcourse the sweet 2GUUP, with its mint showroom engine bay Also thought of RIPS Sparks factory look engine bay Would probably look really good with engine bay, with hidden cables, in the same color as the car, and cam covers in candy red, or breaking of with a engine bay in red candy and the covers in Millenium Jade But its one hell of a work and would probably get me in trouble with authority So what do you think? Cheers Dave

Ill recieve a set of these but in 87mm (0.040 in) overbore. Can post the part number when they arrive

Happened to me to, fixed them with some brackets but when i was going 200+ km/h they started to rub against the front wheels so i slowed down.. not fast enough though since they both ripped off and passed under the car Luckly the car behind kept his distance and managed to not get hit Same happened to a mate of mine a month ago

Im very happy with Nistune, been running it in my 33 Gtst S1 for 10 months now. Using the Z32 ECU, no problem soldering it yourself if you have some basic knowledge about soldering. Fired straight up, of course after sorting the cable changes that is required. Tuned by myself (own a tuningshop in sweden) and have had great success so far in dragraces against similar basic modded cars. Have got faulty coilpacks for the moment so i havent had time to dyno it yet. Ill put Nistune to the test the coming months since i've got a forged RB30/26 build on the go, running twin's and E85 through 1600cc's

Hey Hakon, where u from? Judging by your name it sounds like you're Norwegian, in that case you've got a neighbour here from Swede, building a RB30/26 Good luck with the project! Cheers!

Bringing up the sticky Havent recieved my block yet so i dont know how much it will be bored but do you reckon i should go with the 86.5mm instead of the 87mm pistons if possible? Dont know how good the RB30 handles bore and 2 of my mates cars have had cracks in the cylinders due to to much bore/to thin walls, this was on toyota's though...

Im using a Z32 ecu on my R33 GTST S1, only thing needed to be done was to change the order of the injector cables, that and joining 2 wires into 1 for the AFM signal, since the Z32 has 2, easy as pie I've been running stock S1 turbo, 3" full exhaust, HKS airfilter+piping, FMIC etc etc and done the tuning myself, i couldnt be happier. Also since i have an aftermarket thermostat that opens at 70 degrees i changed the enrichment per temperature and so on to match the mods of the car. AFR 15.2 at low load for fuel economy, 13.5 when turbo starts boosting and 12.2-12.5 on full load/higher revs. Havent had tme to get it dynoed yet but way better then stock I think you'll be very happy with nistune! EDIT: Why i went with the Z32 ecu instead of the RB20 is that the rb20 doesnt support VCT, the Z32 does.

Thats what i think to, so i leans towards getting the 8.5:1 pistons! The nice gentlemen sending me the block also provided me with the crank collar so i wont have to buy one otherwise i guess i could kiss my engine goodbye Although its temping ill try to wait with the pistons until the block is checked to see that 86.5mm are good to go, then ill order them and send them to the company doing the bore to have them measuring it up to be sure

Thanks I guess im in for heaps of work here but im acctually looking forward to it, well actually the process of getting there, atleast thats how i feel now, in about3-4 months itll probably be more like Im planning to pull my RB25 out and apart in the early days of September, the RB30 should arrive sometime late september, hopefully i can just send it off to get it checked, the block bored, the crank checked and if needed balanced. After that its down to measuring in and preparing the ACL race main & rod bearings hopefully without to big of a hazzle I havent really decided what pistons to run yet, the CP Pistons 9.0:1 in comp or the ACL 8.5:1 comp pistons. Im probably running on regular V-Power pumpgas at first just for the ease when tuning, might change to Ethanol/E85 later, which i know likes a higher comp. Do you guys have any tips/pros and cons on which ones to go for, or will it even make that big of a difference?

Thanks, it would really give me a good start and compared to what i need to spend on the RB25 head to get there Have tried to find one but they dont grow on trees around here up north, hopefully i can find one on Ebay or Yahoo auctons

Good to hear 'cause i dont wanna upset someone without knowing it Ye, it really does add up fast Ill ditch that N1 oilpump! Feels like i havent written as much info as i should have. Some things on the list i've already got such as clutch, ex. w/g's, oilcooler and ecu. We manufacture our own manifolds, exhausts and ic-piping so fortunatly that wont be too expensive. Also some somponents will be for dealer price due to having the shop, another positive inpact on the amount of money going in to this. I think im starting to get some more understanding of the work needed to be done to reach that goal Since the start of the thread i've understood that i really should go with the Spool rods, ditch the larger turbos, same goes for the N! oilpump and also i should get me 2 extra Walbros or equivalent fuelpumps. Really good info since i have absolutely no experience of an RB30 build, just 'regular' builds with pieces you know will deliver. I've read that the valves in the rb25 head is a bit small for higher amount of hp's but i've tried to put the foot down for myself somewhere but now it feels like i might aswell keep building the engine with a fully upgraded head as far as cams, valves, springs, lifters and P & P goes. My plan was to keep it stock except for new valvesprings to keep them from floating but from what i understand that will limit me to a maximum of about 600 hp?

First off, Im sorry if i've come off alittle harsh! I blame the language barrieres since im Swedish. R31Nismoid> Ill get a/m rods but why im so keen on going with those turbos is that itll cost me even more to get smaller ones and then after aprox. 4 months changing to bigger ones again but it really does sound like i should get my hands on some smaller turbos for the first stage of the setup! What do you recon i should be getting in addition to the setup in the first post and new rods to break the 700-800hp mark? Unique1> Good point with the balancer, specially since the RB30 is over 20 years old by now, have been looking at ROSS metal jacket balancer When it comes to how much im planning to spend it should end up at about 50,000 SEK about 10k AUD not counting the block and turbos

Thanks for your 'good luck' shanef I've been down the road of hazzles earlier after having built acouple of engines/cars in my own company, nothing ever works out as easy as you want it to! The tuner is myself along with two other guys in the company, we've had quite alot of experience with building and tuning engines lately, myself running nistune with good result, other then that we've tuned acouple of AEMs, PFCs and Autronics in different cars. For example the 2JZ-GTE engine in the pic above, running above the 700 mark, coming up to 1000 with 2 new turbos and the new head fitted.

Ok so if i want to make ANY reasonable power at all i have to rev 9000+...... With the new rods i should be able to push the revlimit a bit higher then 7000 rpms. The turbos are 2 Borg Warner S200's, known to be big but still have a reasonable spool, it will be tight but it wont be a to big of a hazzle Must be a misunderstanding here though, i've never said 800+ with stock head and rods, would be crazytalk. I said 700-800 at the fly, ofcourse this is at tops and not a daily driver-tune, with shotpeened rods, but i've changed that to a/m rods to be sure that things keep together. The head is definitely a bottleneck but im still quite confident that it possible to get 700 at the fly, around 600-620 at the wheels, out of the stock head with a/m valvesprings, although it might not be the most effective way to get them. The stock gearbox has proven to handle atleast 650 at the wheels and im looking forward to test its limits, if it doesnt keep it up then ill get a Z32 box. The diff isnt stock.

The intended RPM is set no higher then 7000, might go up to 7500, more then that and i would need to get me some other rods and some major work done to the head i guess. I know those turbos are a bit on the big side but since they both costed me less then 1000AUD's and both are rebuilt it was a bargain. Ill stick with the Walbros as they have proven to work great so far, have heard alot of good about the Bosch's but since i've already got one Walbro i might aswell stick with them Those Spool rods sounds like a good deal! If its that small cost then it sounds like i should eat noodles for a month and get me rods, would be a cheap guarantee to not be sending the stock ones in an orbit around the block Where did you get them from?

Thanks for all your comments! Definitely good help on the way For now im aming at about 700-800hp's at the fly. Reason for going with the large turbos is because i already have them laying around and im aming to go higher, say 1000hps, when my economics allow, with full head work (p & p, cams, valves etc etc) and more on the fuelside. I want more down low response rather then waiting for something to happen As far as i've seen the stock rods can handle 700-800hp's and having them shotpeened should put me on the right side of the margins. These will be changed later on when aiming for the 1000hp's. When it comes to engineering the piping all around, exhaustsystem, manifolds etc it wont be a problem as you can see from another build we've done, in the attached picture Sound like i should invest in another fuel pump then, although i might be better off with a fuelcell and 3 x in-line Walbros. Again, thanks for your help

Im doing a RB30/25 build and has been doing a fair bit of research lately but i would like to have your thoughts on my setup to be Was thinking of changing the valves and cams to but everythings about economics these days! RB30 Short block RB25DET Head w/ VCT CP Pistons 9.0:1 or ACL 8.5:1 pistons Tomei Valvesprings ACL Main and Rod bearing Shotpeened rods (hopefully) 2 x Borg Warner turbos (550hp each) Aftermarket fuelrail Bosch 1680cc's topfeed injectors 2 x Walbro intank fuelpumps Larger fuellines including return Custombuilt plenum Oilcooler N1 Oilpump Rebuilt sump with baffles Probably forgotten something but ill add it later I am thinking of running E85 therefore the large injectors. But it dont know what pistons to choose and what boost to aim for, running 9.0:1 gives a better grunt at lows but wont let me boost as high as i could with lower compression What do you think?

I own a Skyline.. Just to lighten things up Oh and to toss something in the fire, im following this thread with a very high interest since i got a RB30/25 build going, with two Borg-Warner turbos (combined power ~1100hp) hidden somewhere in the engine bay Other then that itll be running Bosch 1680cc's, custom plenum, ported ex. manifold, headwork and CP Pistons. Thinking of going for E85 but its more expensive here then Shell V-Power gas.