brother_david

I've searched the forum and now i just need to know if someone can confirm what it is needed to transplant a Series 2 engine i've bought, into a Series 1 R33 GTST. The coilpacks and coilpack harness need to be changed to S1? The TPS might be different but not necessary to change? The CAS is different but should just hook up to the S1 connector? What i've understood it might be possible to use the S2 coilpacks if the S2 coilpack harness is used but i dont know if its possible to just hook it up to the S1 main harness? Help me out here guys

How come a thread so many times ends up with one page of good stuff and three pages of 'non'-stuff Im very intrested in the topic of this thread but somewhere it went from solid info to convincing HPs on hondas running loooow octane and HPs on E85 Skylines

Thanks mate! I opened the ECU and smelled the board, could maybe be a very undistinct burned electrics smell, but not enough to make it obvious. Couldnt see any burned parts etc. either. Since i've tried with the SAFC out of the picture, no luck, I've split the loom and followed the AFM powercable back to the ECCS relay, looks fine but i've replaced it anyway, no luck. Tried the ground and signal ground for the AFMs, no luck. Tried a separate signal wire to the ecu, no luck. Next step i guess is to try some relays from a mates car and see if it could be them after all otherwise i have no other solution then trying another ECU, but a Z32 ECU w/ Nistune does unfortunatly not hang from the trees around here Another of those weird things are that if i dont have the AFM connected to the +12v ECCS Relay wire i cant connect to the ECU in Nistune.. Might have something to do with the 'Engine Control'-fuse that burned ealier, since it too comes from the ECCS Relay.. ? Any tip is appreciated!

Hey guys, got a little problem with my R33 S1: Im using Q45 AMFs in my RB30 w/ RB25, they are connected through a Apexi SAFC-II to average the AFM value to the ECU, which have Nistune installed. The other day i was out driving when the BLACK/WHITE/SILVER DOTS +12V power cable to the AFMs got loose and shorted against a turbo causing the engine to cut out. This cable is also used for power supply to the SAFC. I isolated the damage on the cable and changed the 10A 'Engine Control'-fuse which had burned and tried to turn the key and there was a buzzing sound from the passenger feet-area, my guess is either the ECCS-relay or the IGN-relay. Scratched my head, went a turn around the car checking the cable and tried again and it started. Went home with the car, it was running as it should. Then when i tried to shut it off and the engine did but not the IGN-power, saw this since the SAFC-II is connected to that cable. I ended up taking the fuse out and obviously it died. Tried this acouple of times and it kept holding the power to the IGN, though when only if i turned the key in between. Now to the weird stuff: Tried to start it the day after and now when the key is in 3rd click the relay keeps the IGN power for the first time for 10 sec or so, then in some way 'restarts' and does this every 4th second. The car can start but shut down when the relay 'restarts'. What do you think, a shorted wire to the relay? The cable i've been messing with is the BLACK/WHITE/SILVER DOTS going to the AFM. According to the wiring diagram it also goes to the crank sensor. Started the hard work ripping this cable out but i wanted to check what you guys think before i continue!

Sounds like when my CAS gave up, became worse and worse until it ran really bad, wouldnt start and stalled whenever. If not, have you had time to check the timing, if thats wrong it can give the same 'restricted' feeling.

I measured the height difference and calculated what height i neede and had aluminium engine mounts made. Simply its just 2 boxes with an angled top plane. Then i drilled and tapped holes with offsets to get the distance to the firewall correct. Im using the factory RB30 engine brackets, sold my RB25s with the old engine. Works good so far but im nervous about how long the brackets will hold since they're plane metal welded together and im expecting to get somewhere around 1000Nm.

Now i've got some selfexperienced facts to add, just came from the garage, with a borrowed GTST S1 igniter and.... It started! Not only that it started, its the first time the engine has EVER started since its my RB31/26DETT build, and now there a thick fumey fog surrounding the garage So to put an end to this thread, the R32 GTR igniter pack does NOT co-op with R33 GTST S1 if its the GTST harnesses that are used.

Thanks for the help! Ye i thought it sounded a bit weird that i wouldnt be able to use the R32 GTR coils cause thats the part i was sure of! Going to borrow a GTST S1 igniter today and see if i get a different result.

Now this is something else! Have got the answer that it does fit, or rather that someone used a R33 GTST S1 in his RB26 but... It does seem like a GTR igniter pack would fit, since its the same connectors in both endes but as far as i've experienced the last couple of hours its only when turned the wrong way around! The GTR igniter i recieved came with the cables for the coils. But now when im comparing the cables its seems like the GTR cables going from the igniter pack has got the same connector as the GTST cables going into the igniter pack from the main harness! Also if someone could confirm this; the igniter pack shouldnt get hot whith the key in 'ON' position??

Connected everything up and so far so good, though i still have to mount the gearbox and startermotor before trying an actual start up. Clicked around in the Apexi SAFC II menus and found where to set what AFM im using but they're simply a figure01, 02 etc etc but i dont actually know what to try out when im running the Q45s or if this is actually for the output into the ECU which in that case would be 01 for a stock R33 GTST sensor cable. Also dont know if i have to actually have to set that im using 2 inputs or if it gets registered as soon as it gets a value from the second AFM cable. Monitoring the AFMs in the SAFC they gave ~0.248v and ~0.250v when key is in 'ON' position. Found where to set the output to AVG (average) so that part is cleared.

Thanks Paul, appreciate it! Also if someone could confirm that the RB25 Ground & Signal Ground can be united and connected to Ground on the Q45 AFM it would take some more problems off my mind.

Just wanted to doublecheck, im about to wire a Q45 AFM (well 2 actually through an Apexi SAFC II) and since PaulR33s site is down or under construction its hard to find the correct info. Heres what i've got so far: Q45 AFM 3 wires marked BDE B - Signal D - Ground E - 12v Power RB25DET Series 1 AFM plug 4 wires 1 - None 2 - Signal 3 - 12v Ground 4 - Signal ground 5 - 12v Power This gives: B -> 2 D -> 3&4 E -> 5 As far as i've read im supposed to unite the Ground (3) and Signal ground (4) and connect it to the one Ground (D) coming out of the Q45 AFM, is this correct? Though im using the Apexi SAFC II to be able to use 2 AFMs and this thread doesnt cover that it still feels good to know that the basics around one operation before continuing with the next one, which i think/hope i've got covered. /Dave

About that TPS, had a problem with a customers EVO IX, the Haltech (PS1000) ECU hadnt registered that the TPS was connected, though it was, so it simply kept it from starting! Solution was to disconnect and connect it up again Have you had time yet to check if it gets a spark when you turn the key, or if the sparkplugs got fuel residues showing that they're getting fuel? Also we had a problem with the cold start settings, might be because of the fact that its still snow here, but it was not getting enough fuel to start at these the low temperatures. Good luck

Ye had that realization the other day, its all about fitting big and small chunks of Lego® together, with a small addition of tolerances where it is needed, kind of makes building an engine quite simple Hoping the S2 question sorts, me on the ither hand sold the TPS with the stock engine, so now i guess im gonna know if the Q45 one works with the RB25 loom since it seems to fit "P

Just to throw another one in the pot.. I have a Series 1 RB25, the grey connector fits straight up but is this the actual TPS wire or do i have to do something with the black connector on the tps?

Need help on this one Im building a RB30, using the heat exchanger from an RB25DET but i guess the cooler fitting has got the same size. I need to know what size and thread its got, the big water fitting that sits in the block on the drivers side, somewhat close to the firewall

Its as good as any, the only thing with the lo' budget Ebay items is that they'rnt optimized for flow, also the weld COULD but probably won't crack from heat. Got a sound sample from my -94 R33 GTST with 5Zigen exhaust system, loved that exhaust sound: ECR33_5Zigen_exhaust.mp3

If they're blue, try them out, does the connectors fit?

Should run like shit if it doesnt have any boost at all, i would imagine it making lots of blowing sounds too. Oh, not the Jenna Jameson-type of sound though..

Sounds like you've gone through most easy-solutions, same as i went through before i thought as your mates and borrowed a CAS. Solved my problem until my coil packs started sendig lightbolts all over that is So borrow a CAS if possible, or atleast pull yours out and listen to it, dows it make any sounds when you rotate it? Mine was really bad at the end, wouldnt start unless i was toed and stepped of the clutch. Pulled it out and it sounded like it had lots and lots of gravel inside. Be careful though, if you're not able to out it back and use a timing light then mark up real good how it sits before you remove it unless you want some real timing issues

Hopefully they'll be able to huff and puff down a house or two, atleast these guys house: Or maybe not.. They're 2 Borg Warner S256's, on paper they should be able to push up to 1100hp's together, though i doubt ill pass the 4-digit limit, just seems like to much but hey, i might get lucky!

Have you checked the sparkplugs, every single one since one might be fine and the other bad, are they white/black, gooey? A good way to determine if its a fuel issue at all, would be white if its running lean. Also i could imagine the stock lambda might be damaged, making it hesitate as it wont give the correct values to the ecu, making it run bad and sip more fuel?

Well as far as i know the S1 has an external igniter pack as for the S2 has got it built in the ECU

Heres my ongoing RB31/26DETT build, planning to give it a toss about at some more or less local tracks

Thx mate! Ye i had some real headache before deciding whether i should go with the rust or not, but got the airbrushing so cheap that i had to A friend of mine who's also a panel beater thinks i've lost my mind when it comes to the car, didnt get any better when i painted the boot and engine bay in HOK Kandy Apple Red Your Mrs's 33 is a beauty, looks really good with the 20's and proper wheel fit! I hated that bumper when i had one but it really fits that car!