Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

* HKS Pod Filter T/S R33 GTS-T.

* Ready to bolt straight onto the standard AFM (4 bolts)

* Included is 2 brackets to mount the filter in 1 position using the factory Airbox screws and holes.

* Most likely needs a new filter element as this 1 hasn't been changed in over 35,000km.

* COD/DD/Pickup

Make your offer...

hkspod1.jpg

hkspod2.jpg

hkspod3.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31985-hks-pod-filter/
Share on other sites

The diameter of the filter (including the black plastic part) is 20cm

The height from the HKS Cap (holds on the filter element) to the base of the silver bracket is 16cm.

I'm looking for about $100 min.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31985-hks-pod-filter/#findComment-648249
Share on other sites

The diameter of the filter (including the black plastic part) is 20cm

 

The height from the HKS Cap (holds on the filter element) to the base of the silver bracket is 16cm.

 

I'm looking for about $100 min.

Would seem 16cm is too long. My setup sits a little closer than standard to the side of the engine bay. Pity.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31985-hks-pod-filter/#findComment-648289
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
    • Appreciate everything guys. I did go ahead and get an alignment... most of my complains are solved. Car is not perfect, but it's good enough. If I notice uneven tire wear or anything I'll just take everything back to stock.  Thanks again!
    • They still have not shipped the 550cc injectors as they weren't in stock, so in theory I could ask to get the 440cc ones instead, if those work better in my scenario. They're the same price so really shouldn't be an issue. Unfortunately I am not so knowledgeable in most parts of tuning so I wasn't sure what's best to choose between the two. 440cc ones are the lowest they have (not in stock, but available to buy nonetheless).
×
×
  • Create New...