Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Who knows what a relatively low km's neo engine is worth? with or without the turbo.

If you want to sell yours. . . not much

If you want to buy mine. . . . Alot :)

Yours is RWD right? Then you should get anywhere from $1500-2500 depending what you include with it

Mine is AWD, so different block and sump is different, so limited market, either another stagea or a gts4 skyline.

If I buy yours I will also have to weld the front of your car onto mine to accommodate some front drive train action!

Yep mine is RWD, When I sell it I intend to sell it with everything. Turbo, AFM, POD, side mount and piping etc and maybe even the gearbox and tail shaft as well...

Slowly getting manual conversion bits, just trying to source a s2 RB30 block for the engine build

I noticed Envy Imports has a few RB30 blocks in stock when I was looking around the workshop: not sure whether they are S2 or not, since I wouldn't know the difference. Might be worth giving them a call.

an s2 block has the oil and water lines on the turbo side of the block already drilled with fitments, s1 does not

That relates to using a VL block

All R31 blocks have them

I need to get one as well. I have Rb26 head already

Is your car painted yet??

Nah not painted yet still looking like a panda! Been messing around with all the little things, solving that warm start problem. If all goes to plan it will be in the paint shop in a week or 2.

what turbos you thinking of running?

I have Rb26 head already

Hahaha, always one step ahead :)

Do you still have another manual center console getting around your garage?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...