Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Finished tearing apart an RB25DET bottom end. All the bearings had what looked like particulate wear (dead straight scratch from end to end) like some dirt or somesuch has gotten in between the crank and the bearing.... pretty normal for a 17-year-old engine, right?

But... the centre main bearing had a different wear pattern. I don't know what each side of the bearing is named, so I'm making stuff up here... but the side with the annular groove has dark wear tending toward the centre of the bearing, and the other side has very uneven wear as well.

At this point I'm rebuilding a whole new bottom end from an RB30 block, but since I'm trying to learn more about engine building etc I had to ask... what can cause this type of wear in the bearing? Is it just normal sort of wear to see in a main bearing, or is it caused by bad lubrication, fuel diluted oil, uneven load etc.... dying to know.

I've attached pics, adjusted brightness/contrast so the wear patterns come out easier, and highlighted the bits I'm asking about.

Cheers :-)

post-51347-1273467010_thumb.jpg

post-51347-1273467027_thumb.jpg

to my untrained eye the first pic looks like a scorch mark (which would be insufficient oil pressure or really old oil). Not sure about the second pic, mainly just bumping the thread so someone weighs in with some more expertise :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
×
×
  • Create New...