Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My rear right HICAS arm ball joint is stuffed and has lots of play, I have bought a replacement and had a shot at replacing it tonight but got stuck.

Basically I jacked the vehicle up popped the boot off the ball joint and got the shifter on the flat sides of it. Took a bit of a wrench but it cracked and I sat there turning it for ages. It was tight so I assumed I was undoing it but after 10 minutes it didn't seem to have really moved. Am I doing it wrong or is the pressure of the wheel holding the rod in there and there a trick to getting it undone?

Cheers :P

Edited by Rolls
what is the other side joint doing?? , i vaguely remember having to hold one side whilst i loosened the other (feel free to correct me if i'm wrong , it's been a while)

This is what I considered but a friend of mine who had done it on a R33 said I should only need one shifter, unless of course R32s are substantially different.

I didn't take the boot off the other one though so I couldn't see if it was spinning, will check that first if no one else has any other tips by tomorrow.

Thanks.

All good I got a mate to come around with his rattle gun and we figured it out.

Was correct assuming that you the rack is a solid bar that spins, so I have to use two shifters, one to lock the other side and undo it that way.

Car drives much better now without the rear end shaking, also means I should pass regency with no hassle.

Thanks for the comments anyway!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok I get you. But isn’t the butterfly intake a headache with the +T?  see this is my plan so far but please advise me into the right direction.  Nistune Ecu, 1000cc Bosch injectors, TD05 or TD06 Kinugawa turbo using stock rb25det exhuast manifold, walbro fuel pump unsure of model I think it’s 450/460, spitfire coils and sparks to suit and a R35 MAF sensor and boost sensor.    I was thinking maybe do a cheap eBay plenum $400-500 or try find a stock det neo intake. I think I’d port match it so it’s getting the full capacity but open to advice please.  Thanks 
    • The issue now is the 'fuel cut' while driving, and when it happend, it does not stall. This, I did not test the fuel pressure while driving as I cannot with a fuel pressure gauge. I do have Nistune logs, yes. I have also replaced the MAF Sensor.   Also related to the FPG Fuel Hanger – I just realized that I need a Deutsch Crimp Tool to crimp some cables for the FPG Fuel Hanger. Need to purchase additional cables as the kit only included 2, which are for the float. FPG has not responded to my emails so far since purchasing. I thought about taking it to someone and having it done professionally, but I am reluctant since everyone I took it to messed up in some way.  
    • There's a good German place in Brisbane if youre up for the drive 😛
    • The German place in Cabramatta was rock solid, fresh pretzel cooked to order back then. Then it went all quiet, after all the poker machines were removed, then I believe it closed for good. I did drive past the other week and noticed outdoor lighting a big screen, but no idea what is there now.  
    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
×
×
  • Create New...