Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

for the past couple of months my car has been making an immensly loud squeel on start up, only when cold and i wasnt too worried about it at the start but on a drive home last night it happened while i was driving so im concrned now.

i managed to get the bonnet up and someone else to start the car and from the looks of it none of the two belts are slipping, and the screeching noise sounds like its comming from the opposite end to those belts.

a bearing maybe?

any ideas on how to fix this would be beautiful!

Callum

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320725-squirl-mincer/
Share on other sites

CRC or silicon spray all the bearings etc that the belts run on. I usually do it every now and again even tho its never happened to me

ive siliconned sprayed all the bearings i could get to, so ill post back if it did anything or not.

it just doesnt seem though like its comming from the front of the engine, it sounds like

sh*t i hope this isnt serious

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320725-squirl-mincer/#findComment-5234916
Share on other sites

Bearings will make noise all the time if they're stuffed. More likely to be belts - have you checked the tension? You can probably tighten them up again if they're loose, but if it were me i'd just replace them if they dont look perfect.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320725-squirl-mincer/#findComment-5234995
Share on other sites

From personal experience, i would be looking at the alternator belt in particular.

the screech on start would be the alternator kicking in and trying to charge the battery as quick as it can due to the charge lost when cranking. then usually the alternator starts spinning/ the regulator tames it down and the screech stops.

there should be the correct tensions and where to check deflection in the engine manual that's floating around.

oddly enough though, i currently have the opposite problem. at high rpm (4500+) i get a screeching and i have no idea what it is.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320725-squirl-mincer/#findComment-5235292
Share on other sites

Just for the record, a lot of of old jap cars/vans like the nissan vanette etc squeal on start up and idle so it cant be too serious, just something small that bosses cant be f**ked paying for to be replaced lol.

I only mentioned lubing the bearings as iv heard mine starting to squeal while idling, probably got dust etc in them and the lube they would have had (if serviced properly) has dried up which would cause a squeal until they start moving.

Try all the small things first so you can eliminate the problem before spending money on unneeded repairs/parts, ring a local mechanic and ask him what the common causes are of squealing and you should get a few answers pretty quickly

Edited by R34 -_-
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320725-squirl-mincer/#findComment-5235689
Share on other sites

From personal experience, i would be looking at the alternator belt in particular.

the screech on start would be the alternator kicking in and trying to charge the battery as quick as it can due to the charge lost when cranking. then usually the alternator starts spinning/ the regulator tames it down and the screech stops.

there should be the correct tensions and where to check deflection in the engine manual that's floating around.

oddly enough though, i currently have the opposite problem. at high rpm (4500+) i get a screeching and i have no idea what it is.

Haha.....I got both problems...fixed the second one,

wasnt to worried about the first,

though it is annoying when everybody keeps telling me to tighten my fanbelt...

Edited by Arthur T3
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320725-squirl-mincer/#findComment-5235884
Share on other sites

alright cheers

my belts all seem to be fine and intact, no wear on them, i also got a rag and wiped them down to eliminate any possible fluids on them

the only thing is it squiels while its cold, once the engine is at opetating temperature, if i turn the car off and on again no squeal occurs

i thought it may be a possible belt thats too tight? considering its happening when its cold and not when it hots, the old saying heat = expansion? could this be possible also?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320725-squirl-mincer/#findComment-5235887
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
had a look at the engine yesterday, noticed some major slackage on the alternator belt, so tighten that up and bam. no squeel!

my only question is, how do i stop it from becoming loose again?

Once you have tightened the tensioner bolt just tighten the lock block bolt. Just make it hand tight. No need to over do it with a 25 foot torsion bar. The bottom main pivot bolt only needs to be reasonably tight.

The belt squealed when the engine was cold until the belt warmed a bit and gripped better.

Nigel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320725-squirl-mincer/#findComment-5278957
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...