Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

genuine eastbear mirrors, blue : $150

Genuine TRUST front bar, been stitched up a bit. $250

GTR bootlid, no wing. $50

GTR doors, no glass, no reinforcments, great for track cars. $40ea

Shell, race only non compliable shell, decent condition. come check it out. $500 (more pending what is left on it)

10 point bolt in cage, looks to be safety21, around the dash. $900

Cobra fixed back bucket seat, wrap around type. $300

Blitz dual SBC boost controller: $300

B pillar floor brace. $150

C pillar brace. $150

Strut brace front and rear pair $200

RB26 engine loom, perfect condition. $250

GTR castor rods ARC adjustable jap chunky items: $150

Cusco? rear camber arms $120

China rear traction arms $80

China hicas lock bar $80

GTR Diff, OS giken 2way $800

HKS triple plate clutch, near new meat on it $1800

Big SELBYS brand swaybars, adjustable, blade adjustable both, 27mm front 24mm rear $220 each

Perspex rear window, slightly yellow, prob needs clean. suit R32 $100

R32 quarter glass $50 each (pull em out yourself)

R32 GTR Vspec bootlip: $100

R32 GTR grill: $80

R32 GTR/gts4 coilovers JIC, none base height adjustable $500

Dual blitz BOV on stock GTR BOV pipe thingy: $200 pair

R32 GTR brakes. Solid rotors, look to be endless pads (will confirm) $800

S1 Splitfire coilpacks, less than 6 months old. $400

Fuel cell, will check litreage, $220

Bosch 910 Pump $120

ARE custom surge tank, 2.5 litres by the looks of it will confirm $250

Magnafuel twin entry fuel reg, big HP one, $250

PAIR r32 GTR wheels 16x8 +30, one stock colour, one has had paint removed. $350 pair

Panasport G7 wheels, 17x9 +20 all round, staggered brake clearance for bigger rear dish. $1000 set

3" front pipe for twin turbo setup $120

blitz 100mm thick GTR cooler with mounts etc. $450

contact buckna. 0427282562

or reply here.

all parts located in brisbane. can post realistic parts.

request pics for now, will upload a heap this weekend.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/322011-r32-gtr-circuit-car-part-out/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hey guys. As much as I appreciate the interest. I'm not going to chase people down to buy the parts. They're cheap, If you want them, call me, or text me. Or even just shoot me a pm. :ninja:

Kwei - no probs mate, see you tomorrow!

GTR32R - ended up putting braces into my s14. will shoot you across a pic of the wheels tomorrow some time! Also the surge tank and pumps are going into my s15! So only the fuel cell will be up for sale! let me know if you want pics!

Hey guys. As much as I appreciate the interest. I'm not going to chase people down to buy the parts. They're cheap, If you want them, call me, or text me. Or even just shoot me a pm. :banana:

Kwei - no probs mate, see you tomorrow!

GTR32R - ended up putting braces into my s14. will shoot you across a pic of the wheels tomorrow some time! Also the surge tank and pumps are going into my s15! So only the fuel cell will be up for sale! let me know if you want pics!

hey can you please pm me your number and ill buzz you tomorrow

genuine eastbear mirrors, blue : $150

Genuine TRUST front bar, been stitched up a bit. $250

GTR bootlid, no wing. $50

GTR doors, no glass, no reinforcments, great for track cars. $40ea

Shell, race only non compliable shell, decent condition. come check it out. $500 (more pending what is left on it)

10 point bolt in cage, looks to be safety21, around the dash. $900

Cobra fixed back bucket seat, wrap around type. $300

Blitz dual SBC boost controller: $300

B pillar floor brace. $150

C pillar brace. $150

Strut brace front and rear pair $200

RB26 engine loom, perfect condition. $250

GTR castor rods ARC adjustable jap chunky items: $150

Cusco? rear camber arms $120

China rear traction arms $80

China hicas lock bar $80

GTR Diff, OS giken 2way $800

HKS triple plate clutch, near new meat on it $1800

Big SELBYS brand swaybars, adjustable, blade adjustable both, 27mm front 24mm rear $220 each

Perspex rear window, slightly yellow, prob needs clean. suit R32 $100

R32 quarter glass $50 each (pull em out yourself)

R32 GTR Vspec bootlip: $100

R32 GTR grill: $80

R32 GTR/gts4 coilovers JIC, none base height adjustable $500

Dual blitz BOV on stock GTR BOV pipe thingy: $200 pair

R32 GTR brakes. Solid rotors, look to be endless pads (will confirm) $800

S1 Splitfire coilpacks, less than 6 months old. $400

Fuel cell, will check litreage, $220

Bosch 910 Pump $120

ARE custom surge tank, 2.5 litres by the looks of it will confirm $250

Magnafuel twin entry fuel reg, big HP one, $250

PAIR r32 GTR wheels 16x8 +30, one stock colour, one has had paint removed. $350 pair

Panasport G7 wheels, 17x9 +20 all round, staggered brake clearance for bigger rear dish. $1000 set

3" front pipe for twin turbo setup $120

blitz 100mm thick GTR cooler with mounts etc. $450

contact buckna. 0427282562

or reply here.

all parts located in brisbane. can post realistic parts.

request pics for now, will upload a heap this weekend.

do u haev the interior panel for quarter windows?

plz email me at

[email protected]

interested

for r32 gtr

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...