Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Try here: Skyline GTS-T Grill Badge $25 - http://www.justjap.com/parts_in_stock_new.htm

Or here: R33 SII bonnet badge $45 - http://www.justjap.com/parts_in_stock_new4.htm

Not sure of who in Melbourne has them though...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32204-another-violation/#findComment-647066
Share on other sites

Don't park in the city EVER if u value your skyline badging. There are regular culprits going around. Mine got badged their once, and it cost me about $70 to replace the GT badges with new ones. They stole my 'S' too, but i didn't want it anyhow, lol.. but still.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32204-another-violation/#findComment-649544
Share on other sites

nissan wants more? damn, i don't think these little ****ers how much it actually costs to fit another of these badges..

Badging a commodore or falcon costs hardly anything and they're easily to find another, but a skyline it costs a fair whack, and it looks crap without them unfortunately.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32204-another-violation/#findComment-649646
Share on other sites

http://www.justjap.com/parts_in_stock_new3.htm <-- those $49 ones say they are for "Skyline GTR R32/R33 guard badges" maybe the GTST ones are cheaper??? - shoot them an email or give them a buzz!

I know you are talking about the GT badges!

Perhaps the thieves DO know the value and THAT'S why they rip them...pri(ks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32204-another-violation/#findComment-649808
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...