Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have you got any play in your steering linkages that might be causing the problem?

Also, the problem might be emphasized with the movement of the steering box because you're trying to mix 2 systems that were never designed to be that way.

I haven't entertained the possibility, other than look into a 280ZX set up, but my thoughts go to the movement the steering box system tolerates. The R n P system has virtually zero play as the rack is firmly mounted to the crossmember or firewall, where as the steering box system has some tolerated play from the flexing steering box to the linkages to the strut.

Ozdat do a steering box brace for Datto 1600, but don't do anything for the D/H/MR30. It's something I have been working on for a few months now, but as yet haven't produced a prototype for testing, as the Skynats have taken preferrence over everything else.

A brace of this nature would go a long way to eliminating the movement issue.

Cheers, D

i understand wat your sayin, ive made my own steering box brace, idler bushs and drag links all replaced.. its like comparing a 19 year old to a 30 year old women, the 19 year olds tight and fresh, and the 30 year olds old and loose, it is wat it is

ive figured out if u lenghtn the adjuster this will only give u more thread,(and would be alot safer) 2 get the ends to sit propally will need longer ends or hubs modified..

off to pickn pay on weekend to c wat i can come across

Thinking about it Dennis.

Your car may sit a little lower than mine if the L28 is much heavier than the FJ20

I bounced your current set up off Toperformance in Melbourne, so it will be interesting to see what their opinion is eh?

If it's not what I want, I will be doing something similar I guess, but I'll get some springs made by Allsprings at Liverpool and at my specs.

Thanks, D

Response from Toperformance for interest sake!

The part numbers quoted are from all over the place, so I cannot say what

the resulting heights will be, as the car/spring combination is not recorded

in the data base.

It would seem to me that the final spring fitted to the front might be a bit

underdone in initial rate, allowing the car to crash onto the bump stops,

but this is speculation on my part.

Be interesting to see how it handles on the weekend at your competition day?

Cheers, D

i understand wat your sayin, ive made my own steering box brace, idler bushs and drag links all replaced.. its like comparing a 19 year old to a 30 year old women, the 19 year olds tight and fresh, and the 30 year olds old and loose, it is wat it is

ive figured out if u lenghtn the adjuster this will only give u more thread,(and would be alot safer) 2 get the ends to sit propally will need longer ends or hubs modified..

off to pickn pay on weekend to c wat i can come across

I don't know if this would be an answer to your problem, but would a spacer between the strut base and the steering arm change the angle enough to cure your problem?

Cheers, D

I don't know if this would be an answer to your problem, but would a spacer between the strut base and the steering arm change the angle enough to cure your problem?

Cheers, D

yea need to be a bigger balljoint cos of the s13 hubs. would help the bump steer problem, i no u can get em 4 s13s etc, weather they can be pressed into r30 arms have nfi

if it was standard strut ass. be allot easier to get right

im about to do this setup for my r30 i used to work at pedders and still have access to a large number of different tie rod ends and steering arms the only thing i can think of is to get a longer tie rod that can have a spacer put between the tie rod and the hub where it mounts lowering the arm a little im sure i can find something that will work? pics of what you have would be great

im about to do this setup for my r30 i used to work at pedders and still have access to a large number of different tie rod ends and steering arms the only thing i can think of is to get a longer tie rod that can have a spacer put between the tie rod and the hub where it mounts lowering the arm a little im sure i can find something that will work? pics of what you have would be great

[/quote

sounds good! ill throu sum pics up asap, just need to fix my camera

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Food for thought, the stock oil filter thread is a 3/4-16 UNF, which has an ID of about 10 to 12mm (according to ChatGPT lol). Now compare than to an 10AN, which has an ID of about 14mm (Raceworks is 14.2mm, Speed flow is 14.27mm).  
    • Yep, totally get that. However hooking in for Generator back up is only a few hundred bucks for the wiring. You could put a couple of those in (for different circuits explicitly) and run a couple of baby generators. Bonus, you can balance them across different circuits, and now have backups in your backup. I'm looking at buying places that won't even have water etc, and I don't mind the idea of getting off the electric grid either, even with everything you've said. This country already has enough power outages that even the mains grid isn't that reliable anymore. I do agree though on spending a bit more to get better gear, and to add some extra redundancy in to the system too.
    • You can set hard reserves on your battery system, and it can't be discharged past that.  
    • That sounds like an excellent idea. But total self-sufficiency means exactly that. You have no-one else to blame when your system faults out and you have no power for a week or two while it gets fixed. You'd have to go the whole hog and get a diesel genny and all the switchover gear, to get you through such times. And, despite the fact that over 20 years, my system has been pretty reliable**, I have seen so many inverter explosions (or less dramatic deaths), panel and roof JB fires, and so on, over that time, to know that the stuff is the same as any other bulk Chinese manufactured stuff. The failure rate is well above zero - both on the equipment and on behalf of the meth addled installation labour force. And then..... warranty and means of redress against the supplier you bought the gear from. Best I can tell is that only a handful of solar companies are still around within 5 years of starting their advertising pitch. They disappear and phoenix like crazy. So, as per 1st paragraph, I suspect the only way to is go balls deep and spend maybe 2-3 times as much as you might think, so that you have every base covered. Plus, know and understand your gear intimately, so you can diagnose problems, sort them out yourself, etc, etc. Plus, probably have to consider upgrading various parts as the years pass, to maintain compatibility with newer stuff, performance and reliability, etc, etc. Whereas, remaining attached to the grid has an ongoing cost that keeps going up even if you use bugger all power from it. But it does provide the fallback in case of the worst case with your own gear. You either pay up front or as you go, I suspect.
    • Add more solar panels to the array. Call the electricity company and tell them you're moving out... Live off grid electric wise
×
×
  • Create New...