Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I noticed yesterday me speedo had stopped working. Everything else is fine fuel/torque split/oil/revs etc, however no speed. I took the dash apart and checked to make sure the pin was in place and that the speedo cluster itself was OK and all looks good. Put it back together and drove up the driveway, still no speed. Took it out again and then noticed that the white pin was all of a sudden missing. Hunted around inside the dash and found it, pics below:

DSC00766.jpg

DSC00765.jpg

DSC00764.jpg

DSC00763.jpg

DSC00762.jpg

Not enough pics imo but you get the idea...

What I want to know is, do I have to replace the entire speedo cable or can I just replace the pin itself? At the base of it, as illustrated, has 2 nice splits up the side of it. Alternatively, if it's not dodgy, would superglue work? hehe

-Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/323775-speedo-cable-pin/
Share on other sites

not exactly sure what 32 cables are like but if its similar to 31 cables you'll need a new one. i broke then white pin off the end of myne and superglued it back on (works fine still) but yours looks like its broken further down. if you think you can super glue it then give it a go, pretty hard to break anything else in the process

Sorry guys, HDD died on Friday but I'm back!! lol

Had my pin snap, replaced it with a brand new cable bought off the shelf from Nissan :thumbsup:

Take dash surround off, take cluster out, get under side of car, unscrew cable from sender, go to engine bay, unbolt cable mount on firewall, extra cable out through exposed hole, throw old cable in bin, replace with new cable, drop a skid.

Edited by bubba

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...