Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering what peoples thoughts are on this.

I will be winding the boost up on my built 26 engine in a couple of weeks, just dont know if im better of geting a bleed valve and dyno it that way or buying a electronic solenoid and doing it through the ecu.

Havn't heard much about the boost control setup of the vipec ecu hoping someone with some knowledge can fill me in.

The engine has recently been run in and has -5's fitted with all the supporting mods.

Im looking to run up around 20-24 psi

Edited by Mark-32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/324379-vipec-v44-boost-control/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i havent had any problems with it, mine gains 1psi in the midrange before falling back to the set PSI by redline, though i am running a single with external gate and havent fiddled with the finer points of the boost control (you can set the mac valves duty for every 1000rpm or which ever intervals you want to set it up as within the maps total cell limit)

i havent had any problems with it, mine gains 1psi in the midrange before falling back to the set PSI by redline, though i am running a single with external gate and havent fiddled with the finer points of the boost control (you can set the mac valves duty for every 1000rpm or which ever intervals you want to set it up as within the maps total cell limit)

Is there any particular solenoid i need to run with the vipec?

if you put the switch inline with the valve to turn it off so you run actuator pressure yes.

This may seem like a dumb question but what does the 'mac' stand for when you say mac valve?

Im assuming a mac valve is just an electronic boost control solenoid....? And its this that gets wired directly to the ecu and the ecu controls it and does the rest?

And if I run the in cabin missle type switch inline with the valve i could turn the valve on or off with the switch?

On being the high boost setting, and off being stock boost?

Sorry for all the questions just trying to nut it all out!

I forgot to ask will this be ok to use with two wastegates? 2860 -5's? Just had a look on the vipec website and there are two types of mac valves?

If you don't mind me asking...what would i expect to pay for unit + tune? (allow plenty for worst possible circumstances)...

I went to a rather big name workshop the other day and was greeted with blank stares when i asked if they tune vipecs....but i really want to jump on board....

Aiden

You can use a R33 GTST RB25DET standard solinoid with the vipec also.

You can use the RB26DETT solinoid as well. (better then rb25)

I tuned a car last night, it was using a solinoid that looks like the mac valve but it was stolen from a cheap chineese boost controller and it worked fine.

The car was running a 6psi spring in the external gate and i was able to get it to push out 26psi of boost with the vipec boost control.

Also if you want to have dual boost settings its very easy to setup, you setup a switch and wire it to Digital input 5 or 6 and then setup the vipec to run 2 maps for boost control which is changed just by flicking the switch.

Very simple to setup and works very good.

i wasnt aware that it had dual boost maps. Though it ties up a digital input which on the plugin version there is only 6 from memory and they are useful for other things like launch control/flat shifting/switching fuel maps. installing a switch inline with the valves signal wires means you just run gate pressure when the valve isnt powered (if that is what you are after in your dual boost setup.)

i wasnt aware that it had dual boost maps. Though it ties up a digital input which on the plugin version there is only 6 from memory and they are useful for other things like launch control/flat shifting/switching fuel maps. installing a switch inline with the valves signal wires means you just run gate pressure when the valve isnt powered (if that is what you are after in your dual boost setup.)

Yeah I think thats the way to go by just running the inline switch to the valve. Seems pretty simple.

Can anyone explain how the launch controll works? Never looked into this function but Im very interested in this as my rb26 is converted to rwd and this could be very usefull for me.

I would also like to set this up at the same time i retune the car to wind the boost up.

I must say I was already impressed with the vipec unit after my initial run in tune. It continues to impress me and i have only ever used power fc before and not bagging the pfc but compared to the vipec they are worlds apart.

Any info on the launch control setup would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers for the info guys.

you need to connect the switch at the top of the clutch pedal up to a digital input on the ECU (get someone electrically minded to do this it requires some rewiring of 12v supply etc), you can then setup the launch control/flat shifting to work when the clutch is pressed. my launch control activates after the clutch is held for 10 seconds, and my flat shifting activates over 3500rpm with more than 50% throttle. all of the settings can be changed to suit how you want it to operate.

pretty sure the vipec's launch control is based on speed. As for flat shift, I only know of the bosch shift sensor setup.

you need to connect the switch at the top of the clutch pedal up to a digital input on the ECU (get someone electrically minded to do this it requires some rewiring of 12v supply etc), you can then setup the launch control/flat shifting to work when the clutch is pressed. my launch control activates after the clutch is held for 10 seconds, and my flat shifting activates over 3500rpm with more than 50% throttle. all of the settings can be changed to suit how you want it to operate.

if you have speed inputs from the front wheel/s you can do traction control with the launch control, my launch control is activated (armed ready to go) after the clutch is held for 10 seconds, then you can mash your foot to the floor and drop the clutch.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
    • the Tomei LSD fluid with lsd kit. frustrated that it was shaking the car to crap and affecting everything else negatively, I pulled the diff last night, and removed the lsd carrier, could not find anything wrong, however it seem to be 100 locked up acceleration, and deacceleration, wondering if they sent me a 2 way not a 1.5??  either way I installed the stock open carrier back in place. test drove everything smooth as butter again. no shake, shutter, random, what felt like clutch slip and grab or drive shaft play, etc. something differently wrong in side the lsd. I might bother taking it apart (if possible) to figure out what's going on inside this carrier, as bought too long ago to return.  only draw back is its back to a one wheel wonder.
×
×
  • Create New...