Jump to content
SAU Community

1997 Rs4 S1 Stagea Manual.


Recommended Posts

1997 s1 STAGEA

Regretful sale of my Nissan Stagea s1, . I am the first owner in Aus, . No money is owning on the car, REVS checks are welcome.

Price - $13,000 ONOOOO!

Interior is in immaculate condition, dark grey with no rips. Spacious back seat and boot, all is in original condition.

Engine is in perfect running order, no odd noises or knocks, starts first go, every time. The exhaust isn't loud and doesn't attract the wrong attention. This engine has 91,000ks, idles great and drives like a new car. I have just had my car professionally converted to manual by japanese car specialists - Nispro. this was done less that 1'000km and converted it to 2wd .Car has full MOD PLATE!

Car:

- 1997 rs4 Nissan stagea , 5 speed MANUAL

- RB25DET 6 Cylinder Turbo Twin Cam 24 Valve Engine

Engine Hardware:

-has not been touch stock as a rock!

Drivetrain:

- Exedy button Single Plate Clutch Exedy Pressure Plate

- R33 2wd gear box

- Custom drive shaft

- High quality Tein fully adjustable suspension damper adjusters

- Strut Brace

- Camber adjusters

Wheels/Tyres:

- Work wheels

- Front has 18/9 back 18/9.5 rims

- Tyres225/35 (as new)

Bodywork:

- Factory option dayz bodykit

PLEASE don't hesitate to call on 0420 999 995 (Daniel)

Please no time wasters! Don't reply to this thread if you just want to be a keyboard warrior hero your bullshit isn't needed.

Inspections are welcome, Car is located on Gold Coast. I don't mind doing Interstate deals.

SWAPS - show me, :)

pics to come!!!

Edited by danMcd
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've got 60L of e85 in there at the moment
    • Don't forget to make sure the tank is full to the brim before you try to replace the fuel pump too, that is an essential step.
    • No, 260RS/4wd stagea is 33 GTR/GTS4 double wishbone all round, not struts. The 2wd cars are confusingly strut front. At there rear there is one balljoint at the outer end of the lower control arm. If you have HICAS (my Stagea doesn't, but I think 260RS did, there will be a balljoint of sorts where the HICAS arm attaches to the rear of the hub At the front, there are ball joints either end of the lower control arm, plus the tie rod end for the steering arm
    • So, 2 months later, I just couldn't see any way to be happy with that tank setup. Basically the baffle area is too big and too leaky, the sender was miles off and the no low fuel light thing really bugs me. Other than the fact the fuel hat could safely supply enough power to the pump, it was worse than factory. Biggest thing that bugged me is it would still run out of fuel in medium-high g corners from about 1/4 tank down which is annoying when you are trying to have a zoom, not to mention potentially engine killing if it gets just the right amount of lean-ness....and we've got a few of those corners in our round trip to town (well, bunnings...) So, credit to Frenchy's, they have put together a much better designed setup with what is effectively an in tank surge setup.   As it happens the actual hat is the same, so I switched the fittings across, re-used the single 525 pump, and added a spare pierburg lift pump that I had (must remember to replace that stock, it was a spare for the race car). The only real work to get it all done was to add a second power and earth to the hat which I did by going from a single output to double output relay (very low draw on the lift pump) and also the sender unit that clips into the factory pump holder was again way too loose (so I re-used the 2mm shims from the previous setup). Finally, I added the low fuel light sender from the factory cradle. So....I'll report back how it handles low fuel, and if the sender has any relation to actual fuel level in the tank....
    • The price isn't the issue, it's how hard my fuel pump is to remove now. I fabricated a custom bracket so my pump sits on the very bottom of the tank (I ran the tank down to 5L remaining to test it, works well). But it is a fkn NIGHTMARE to get the pump down into the tank now =/ words can't describe how much I hate fighting with the fuel pump/hanger now. The other issue is reliability, I'm driving down for WTA in a couple of months, I'd be less then impressed if I was half way to Sydney from Brisbane and my pump fails again =/ The other issue I had was my car battery was slowly failing, with low battery voltage my fuel pump couldn't keep up with what the reg was asking from it. I've replaced the battery and my fuel pressure is back to being perfect.  As for the low voltage situation that killed my previous battery, I've got a 150amp alternator sitting on my desk waiting to go in. Fingers crossed that will sort that issue. 
×
×
  • Create New...