Jump to content
SAU Community

Wanted: Info about 4wd turbo Bluebirds

locASH

By locASH,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

For compliance I used, if I can remember, Raj and some other company. No the brain isn't so good now. It's been a few years.

Getting owned by the missus is not so bad, mine likes to give it a bit occassionally :(

The Blueys drama is weight but the AWD helps out on the standing start.

Deano's posted site has a number of errors, quoting the auto weight for the 'line (33) when the manual is 1360kg but the manual time 0-100, as a stock auto won't do that. Th bluey is really fat and down a lot on power so that accounts for the higher speed deficit. I would suggest that on Oz fuel that would be accurate for 0-100 for the line, but probably G-Teched which tends to the low side of innaccurate. I now hover around 5 flat but the suspension is all for track, and dry at that. Been flogged merciless by an almost stock 33 in the wet at sandown in the corners but smoked him on the straights. In the dry would be different with the short slip diff and aggressive suspension. What it has taught me is that not all sprints are dry, so I need to have a more moderate setup that i can modify for different conditions.

Deano, thanks for posting that site link. By wits I mean the somewhat older term as referred to in this dictionary http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=wit

Don't take it the wrong way. I have a fair education and a lot of experience as a mechanic and with imports, but the engineer in me gets a little peaked when i see unsubstantiated figures peddled without support. I had to know these things automatically so when asked by customers I was able to answer so i always refer to the original factory specs.

locASH, sorry about the hijack, but you should be starting to get an opinion of the bluey by now and all I can recommend is get one, just a manual if possible.

deano_33 Enthusiast

deano_33

Posted
Posted

Ha ha, on a crazy tangent - isn't the internet awesome for this sort of stuff. So much information but it's so hard to sort through the crap to find decent info - I know I have trouble sometimes, I can't believe I turned into one of those sprouting inaccurate information. Your'e right skylinegeoff - I was just being a bit defensive.

deano_33 Enthusiast

deano_33

Posted
Posted

Ha ha, on a crazy tangent - isn't the internet awesome for this sort of stuff. So much information but it's so hard to sort through the crap to find decent info - I know I have trouble sometimes, I can't believe I turned into one of those sprouting inaccurate information. Your'e right skylinegeoff - I was just being a bit defensive.

Yeah I wouldn't treat that site like it's the bible either - obviously I was misled by it.

DaiOni Experienced

DaiOni

Posted
Posted

"Th bluey is really fat and down a lot on power so that accounts for the higher speed deficit"

The figure I've seen quoted is 1380kg - that's a HPI quote so it could well be wrong (though they are quite small cars, really). They put the bluebird at about .10 slower over 400m, and .001 over 0-100 - compared to an r33 (they are manual figures)

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

No try 1480kg @ 155kW = 9.55kW/kg

vs

1360kg @ 187kW = 7.27kW/kg which means rolling response will suffer. It has an advantage in the AWD which is lost to the lower power and higher weight. Even if it was 1360 it still has a large power disadvantage.

Not everyone really gives a rats about the drag time or 0-100 tho. The bluey will be a great allrounder with a great confidence building AWD system that will terrorise GTST's in the wet. Fantastic everyday car. I will guarantee that it will stink on the track untill modified a little cos of the doughy suspension, but not everyone wants to come and play there either.

Jay95R33 Grand Master

Jay95R33

Posted
Posted
No try 1480kg @ 155kW = 9.55kW/kg

vs  

1360kg @ 187kW = 7.27kW/kg

Isn't that supposed to be 9.55kg/Kw and 7.27kg/Kw ?? :(

Interesting read this thread seems I almost bought one when before I bought the R33.

I also thought the Bluebirds were mainly FWD until there was slip, then the backs kicked in, it's just what I was told for the car dealers so it could be a load of :bs!:

Probably the only two things that stopped me from buying one was the FWD thing, plus I wanted a manual, and manuals are sooooo hard to find :(

Very nice cars though, and could be pretty damn fast with a few mods.

J

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • MBS206
      Cas issue

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...