Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just picked up an R33 gtst s2. It needed a new diff and radiator so I've just finished replacing those and today I just noticed a slight whirring noise, which I think is coming from the timing belt cover.

Has anyone had this noise before? It only does it just off idle then it's fine after that. I've already ordered a new timing kit and water pump today which I'll fit on Friday, and hopefully that fixes it.

The motor has done just over 100,000kms so I'm gonna play it safe and replace the belts and pulley, and water pump while I'm at it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325911-is-my-timing-belt-on-the-way-out/
Share on other sites

100k service = change timing belt. you're due so change it, interference motor means things get ugly if it snaps.

aftermarket belts eg gates make some noise anyway, but if yours hasn't been done and it's the OEM belt then it could be a warning sign that you should change it!!

i never heard a peep out of my OEM belt, got a gates on there now and it does make a slight whirr just off idle but they often do that.

Yea I'm prayin it's only the timing belt. I bought the car off a mate and he was straight up with the few things that were wrong with it and he did mention the timing belt hasn't been done yet. The motor sounds perfectly smooth, only the slight whirr just off idle. My parts should get here Thursday, so I should have it all completed by Friday arvy. I'm massively keen to get it on the road but don wanna playin Russian roulette n end up blowin the motor by drivin it with the old belt.

Hey guys, I am having the same issue ....HOWEVER,

my 96 R33 GTST (100km covered), was due for a timing belt, especially as I only just got the car a few months ago and didn't know if its been done.

I bought a timing kit, had it fitted, and within 2 weeks I am getting a whirr/growl from top of timing cover,

the noise only happens a few hundred RPM over idle and goes when revved higher, I have noticed that the growl goes once its warm (after a few mins) but have also notice when quite hot... I am getting a high pitched groan/moan from the same area.

Is the idler bearing shot? or tensioner? or is it just a noisy belt?

My other concern is that the tensioner has been set too tight and its worn the bearings ... is this possible?

Note, The noise wasn't there before the timing belt was done. :down:

Muchly appreciated if anyone else can shed some light?

Andy

New belts usually do that before theyre settled in, If it's a Gates timing belt, completely normal, might need retensioning down the track if it still does it

So a little growl just above idle for a few minutes is normal?

will it quieten down with age? Is this the same for the hum/whine when it is warm?

Thanks

so, i changed the timing belt yesterday and changed the tensioner and idler pulley while i was at it. The water pump was weeping out of the 'tell tale' hole so i replaced it as well.

It would have been approximately a 4 hour job, but my mate that was helping me accidently snapped off one of the 6mm bolts that holds the top timing cover on. Then it turned into a big mission to find a small enough ezi-out kit in town. And in the end I ended up drilling out the bolt and tapping it to an 8x1.25 hole instead and now its all sweet.

Anyways, now the new belt is fitted, the whirring noise that was there before, is now completely gone :-)

There is now the higher pitched whining/whirring noise... which is obviously characteristic of a new timing belt until it runs in.

But other than that, everything looks fine.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...