Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just picked up an R33 gtst s2. It needed a new diff and radiator so I've just finished replacing those and today I just noticed a slight whirring noise, which I think is coming from the timing belt cover.

Has anyone had this noise before? It only does it just off idle then it's fine after that. I've already ordered a new timing kit and water pump today which I'll fit on Friday, and hopefully that fixes it.

The motor has done just over 100,000kms so I'm gonna play it safe and replace the belts and pulley, and water pump while I'm at it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/325911-is-my-timing-belt-on-the-way-out/
Share on other sites

100k service = change timing belt. you're due so change it, interference motor means things get ugly if it snaps.

aftermarket belts eg gates make some noise anyway, but if yours hasn't been done and it's the OEM belt then it could be a warning sign that you should change it!!

i never heard a peep out of my OEM belt, got a gates on there now and it does make a slight whirr just off idle but they often do that.

Yea I'm prayin it's only the timing belt. I bought the car off a mate and he was straight up with the few things that were wrong with it and he did mention the timing belt hasn't been done yet. The motor sounds perfectly smooth, only the slight whirr just off idle. My parts should get here Thursday, so I should have it all completed by Friday arvy. I'm massively keen to get it on the road but don wanna playin Russian roulette n end up blowin the motor by drivin it with the old belt.

Hey guys, I am having the same issue ....HOWEVER,

my 96 R33 GTST (100km covered), was due for a timing belt, especially as I only just got the car a few months ago and didn't know if its been done.

I bought a timing kit, had it fitted, and within 2 weeks I am getting a whirr/growl from top of timing cover,

the noise only happens a few hundred RPM over idle and goes when revved higher, I have noticed that the growl goes once its warm (after a few mins) but have also notice when quite hot... I am getting a high pitched groan/moan from the same area.

Is the idler bearing shot? or tensioner? or is it just a noisy belt?

My other concern is that the tensioner has been set too tight and its worn the bearings ... is this possible?

Note, The noise wasn't there before the timing belt was done. :down:

Muchly appreciated if anyone else can shed some light?

Andy

New belts usually do that before theyre settled in, If it's a Gates timing belt, completely normal, might need retensioning down the track if it still does it

So a little growl just above idle for a few minutes is normal?

will it quieten down with age? Is this the same for the hum/whine when it is warm?

Thanks

so, i changed the timing belt yesterday and changed the tensioner and idler pulley while i was at it. The water pump was weeping out of the 'tell tale' hole so i replaced it as well.

It would have been approximately a 4 hour job, but my mate that was helping me accidently snapped off one of the 6mm bolts that holds the top timing cover on. Then it turned into a big mission to find a small enough ezi-out kit in town. And in the end I ended up drilling out the bolt and tapping it to an 8x1.25 hole instead and now its all sweet.

Anyways, now the new belt is fitted, the whirring noise that was there before, is now completely gone :-)

There is now the higher pitched whining/whirring noise... which is obviously characteristic of a new timing belt until it runs in.

But other than that, everything looks fine.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...