Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys, she lives.

spec is as below with power figures

rb30 block

fully home ported rb26 head

1.6mm cometic h/g

cp forged slugs 8.3.1

spool gen 3 rods

tomei oil pump

ati 1000bhp front damper

acl race bearings

hks step 2 cams 272/in 10.2mm lift 280/ex 10.2mm lift

os giken r4c clutch

gt4094r turbo

6 boost manifold 50mm turbosmart gate 4" dump + 2"screamer

std box, with giken centre plate and cryo treated gears

power is at the hubs

470kw,s @ all 4 wheels @ 1.5 bar

530lbs @ all 4 @ 6600rpm

full boost by 4300rpm

will post graphs and a small dyno clip soon.

car was dyno on a hub dyno in 50degree temps, its warm here at the moment.

Edited by rockabilly
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326066-my-rb2630-lives/
Share on other sites

well she,s back on the road, new bottom end, spool rods, tomei oil pump,cheers rick @ endless, new at 1000bhp damper,cometic 1.6mm h/g, hks step 2 cams, fully ported head by me.lol.

graphs and a little dyno clip of the old girl winding up..

thanks th garth/mark @ mgt for all there help in installing and mapping the link g4, superb ecu for driveability, not may cars tickover so smooth with this power..

figures are at the hubs.

640bhp @ 1.5bar boost

530 lbs @ 6600rpm.

bernie.

th_RB26-30DYNOMGT.jpg

IMG_0918.jpg

IMG_0917.jpg

IMG_0916.jpg

IMG_0915.jpg

IMG_0914.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326066-my-rb2630-lives/#findComment-5309372
Share on other sites

great to hear bernie :D

what boost level are u planning to run or u sticking with 1.5bar?

oh & what is that thing sitting above the intake lol - when i 1st looked at your clip i initially thought it was a pisstake as it looks like a MASSIVE turbine!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326066-my-rb2630-lives/#findComment-5309420
Share on other sites

hi marko, we tried higher boost but made no more power just slightly more torque?. but temps in the booth were 50deg as it was 30 deg outside, the extra turbo was to keep the plenum below 50degrees on the runs..lol. maybe because i am still on the original plenum its restricting it.. but it goes well.lol..very well....so for the moment leave as is.. just to add, the motor had done 45 miles on 10/40w semi synth oil, then dropped and fully synth added and dynoed...done 160 miles now ..........

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326066-my-rb2630-lives/#findComment-5310545
Share on other sites

hi marko, we tried higher boost but made no more power just slightly more torque?. but temps in the booth were 50deg as it was 30 deg outside, the extra turbo was to keep the plenum below 50degrees on the runs..lol. maybe because i am still on the original plenum its restricting it.. but it goes well.lol..very well....so for the moment leave as is.. just to add, the motor had done 45 miles on 10/40w semi synth oil, then dropped and fully synth added and dynoed...done 160 miles now ..........

ive always wondered what an aftermarket single throttle body intake plenum would make in terms of gain...does anyone have this data (i.e. before & after test)?

im also using the factory intake plenum :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326066-my-rb2630-lives/#findComment-5310812
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...