Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

MMM so tempting. Couple questions on that.

What does the 100k service involve? Best place to go to for this ?

What would you guys / Girls fix on it and how?

Anything I should worry about ?

This car will be a 10 year car Im hoping.

100k will cost you around $1000, Boostworx is recommended.

Just give it a nice general clean up, get it detailed, clea the engine bay, the start picking at the thigs that shit you, like, i wat it lower / handle better, dont like these rims, i wanna go faster, etc.

No offence to any budding mechanics around here, but i wouldnt trust a major service to anyone but a recommended workshop. The R34 100k kit from Kudos is a lil over $500, so if you factor in labour and the incidentals, around 1000. Pitlane quoted me $1000.

No offence to any budding mechanicsd her aroune, but i wouldnt trust a major service to anyone but a recommended workshop. The R34 100k kit from Kudos is a lil over $500, so if you factor in labour and the incidentals, around 1000. Pitlane quoted me $1000.

I agree with you there, but as i don't know any mechanics (hoping to get to know a few here) I would go to a workshop. Just hope there isn't an MAJORS on it engine wise or could be a sad day.

On the topic of the engine. Is the RB25DET Neo 2.5 litre 6 cylinder turbo A nice solid powerful engine? Again sorry, not very knowledgeable in this area, just know what i like (aesthetics) :D

100,000k service includes complete fluid flush & change over (every fluid in the whole car), water pump, timing belt, spark plugs, all new filters, 100% car check over, and then the other stuff like rotor machine etc.

Ring up Sinergy Motorsports for a quote :D.

NEO25's are very decent, I would happily run 300+rwkw with a standard bottom end and cams etc providing the tune is nice n chunky :)

Yeah mine was only water pump and timing belt kit when i got boostworx to do it

Simon is running a neo in his drift car and getting like 330 rwkw with a metal head gasket he now has cams but wastegate fell over the last time they went to tune it

Give Martin Donon a call from Willall Racing or Shaun from Boostworx, if i remember ill chat to Martin today if i see him and come back this arvo with a quote

Boostworx - $1350, incl all oil (synthetic) and a dyno ecu touch up. Just got off the phone.

that is not a bad price to pay to have all the work done professionally.....with regards to big things being done to the car i prefer a reputable workshop doing it rather then some back yarder mechanic

Here are a few i found interstate i wouldnt mind getting some opinions on.

R34 GTT 1

R34 GTT 2

R34 GTT 3

R34 GTT 4

If anyone could find something closer that would be a bit easier too.

Victoria wouldnt be to bad as its not THAT far to drive back, but NSW ,may be a fair hike and $$ to drive back.

Would like:

Manual Transmission

under 100k on the clock would be nice too.

Here are a few i found interstate i wouldnt mind getting some opinions on.

34 1 - ugly tail lights and rims, selling before 100k service it seems

34 2 - great base car for some light mods, looks the goods. i rate this one

34 3 - aids wing, but a good list of mods, good price

34 4 - front bar aids, but really cheap, id be checking this one mechanically. km's seem a lil low for a 98.

my opinions

my opinions

My opinion is ... don't forget you'll need a vehicle ID inspection when you bring it over. I like car 3 with the mods, but Regency will have a field day with it. Car 4, does have low (questionable) kms.

Car 3 gets my vote, as long as you got bits access to, to get the ID inspection done easy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...