Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok guys i need abit of help mainly places to start looking with my laurel which was having a few issues on Saturday at a drift day,

Car: nissan Laurel

Motor: series 2 RB25, ignitor on coil type

Mods: greddy copy plenum, tr43 turbo, split fire coils, AFM in cold pipe before throttle, extended wiring over engine bay , XF falcon throttle with tps sensor, mostly stripped wiring loom, Power FC computer

Problem, started off the when i'd throw the car in for a scando it would cut out for a second or so then accelerate again, thought it was the

fuel pump as it was very noisy (not a usual loud hum, sorta a gurgling type sound) so changed that out with brand new 040 and went back out on the track. car ran for about 6 or so laps fine then it started to cut out again but this time i would only have to start accelerating (putting load onto the engine about 3/4 throttle type thing). the cut out was like the car turned off, it didn't cough or splutter blow smoke or any of the usual suspects for like a blown cooler pipe or vacuum line. and the only length of silicon joiner is the 2inch 90degree bend coming off the turbo everywhere else is steel piping, bends etc and just short joiners. metal induction pipe and air filter a one of the drift type solid shape

So now i'm confused, first thought after the fuel pump was the ignitor but as these are on the coils on this motor it wouldn't cut out like it is i would have thought, next would be afm but before i start going over everything i just wanted to check if there may be another problem i could be overlooking.

any help would be appreciated, i've never had an issue like this before so i'm stuck

Im pretty sure similar thing happened to me on the weekend at the track. After a few runs suddenly sometimes as I downshifted to gear 2 and pumped it out of the corner its like the car just stopped and didnt do anything then let off the acclerator and pumped it again and it went, not sure what it was but yeah changed to spark plugs just for the sake of it hasnt done it again but then again it only did it a few times.

I was thinking aswel it could be a fuel pump issue but Ive got a nismo fuel pump so the mounting and all that shouldnt be an issue since its direct drop in and I had plenty of petrol, and it sort is like a missfire cuase it just stops the car and it like its stuck but yeah my plugs were pretty old so I guess it would be the cheapest thing to check first.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...