Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all, i replaced my rooted diff with what i thought was a decent diff, and turns out that its acting up, i have no idea why it does it, but when i turn sharply, like when im taking off and turning sharply at the same time, the diff grinds and feels horrible, this is the only time it does it, so im thinking that it isnt slipping properly? from my understanding the lsd will slip under X torque to allow the wheels to spin differently, i filled the gearbox with LIMSLIP 90 penrite oil right to the filler hole.

any ideas on what its doing and how to fix it? (preferably oil based fixes :P)

cheers

I have a Cusco 1.5MZ which was installed 2 wks ago as a replacement for my R34GTT OEM diff.

I am experiencing simliar type problems when in low rev range 1st, 2nd gear, tight turns, I experience a thump from the diff end, feels like it is rolling over inside itself in the diff housing.

I initially had Redline 75-90w shockproof lightweight oil in their one week ago, this weekend I changed to Royal Purple 85-140w with the additive, and I thought for the first hour of driving it felt so much better, until I did a tight turn and then the diff felt like it rolled over inside itself again and gave an almight thump sound. Now it does it more constatly. But when driving at speed it is silent and feels great and operates as it should.

I am also getting a lot of hard clunking from my shaft at low rev range gear change engaging the diff, but it is a 1 piece and I am trying to change back to 2 piece. I am wondering if the whole drivetrain needs to be adjusted to make everything a lot tighter for normal operation.

From my experience so far it is not your oil, it is your drive line that is the issue, prob needs to be tuned accordingly for correct operation if that is even possible.

What are other people views on this?

hey all, i replaced my rooted diff with what i thought was a decent diff, and turns out that its acting up, i have no idea why it does it, but when i turn sharply, like when im taking off and turning sharply at the same time, the diff grinds and feels horrible, this is the only time it does it, so im thinking that it isnt slipping properly? from my understanding the lsd will slip under X torque to allow the wheels to spin differently, i filled the gearbox with LIMSLIP 90 penrite oil right to the filler hole.

any ideas on what its doing and how to fix it? (preferably oil based fixes :P)

cheers

Did you replace the whole diff, housings & all? Or just fit an LSD centre in your own housing?

If centre only, who done the work?

Also what type of diff? Assuming it is a mechanical LSD type but 1-way, 1.5-way, 2-way? What manufacturer, etc?

Did you replace the whole diff, housings & all? Or just fit an LSD centre in your own housing?

If centre only, who done the work?

Also what type of diff? Assuming it is a mechanical LSD type but 1-way, 1.5-way, 2-way? What manufacturer, etc?

it was a straight swap, the whole housing, with what im pretty sure is the exact same diff, from nissan, im not sure on what sort of diff it is, all i know is its an LSD :ph34r: but i assume that all r33 S1 GTST's have the same, i tried to figure it out but cant find the info anywhere

OK, first of all, if you have fitted a standard R33 GTST diff, although it's LSD, it is viscous, not mechanical LSD.

This means it uses a viscous (fluid) coupling to limit slip, rather than clutch-packs, etc like a mechanical LSD does.

With a viscous LSD I would not use specific LSD oil as that is meant for mech LSDs with clutch-packs, etc. Would just use a general 80w90 gear oil.

You are right in assuming that with a standard diff the wheels should be free to move at different speeds at low load, low torque.

Can you better describe the noise or feeling it's making? The more info, the easier to diagnose...

ok, should i look into changing the oil?

its not so much a noise that you hear, but a feeling in the car, when turning, although the car still moves it feels like the diff is grinding something inside and feels VERY metal on metal inside the diff, it makes the car a bit hesitant to move, aka the car jutters slightly as you move

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
    • the Tomei LSD fluid with lsd kit. frustrated that it was shaking the car to crap and affecting everything else negatively, I pulled the diff last night, and removed the lsd carrier, could not find anything wrong, however it seem to be 100 locked up acceleration, and deacceleration, wondering if they sent me a 2 way not a 1.5??  either way I installed the stock open carrier back in place. test drove everything smooth as butter again. no shake, shutter, random, what felt like clutch slip and grab or drive shaft play, etc. something differently wrong in side the lsd. I might bother taking it apart (if possible) to figure out what's going on inside this carrier, as bought too long ago to return.  only draw back is its back to a one wheel wonder.
×
×
  • Create New...