R33 Gtst S1.5 For Quick Sale (bargain!)
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There isn't that many cars yet that are using electric coolant pumps, but they are slowly becoming more common, especially in the euro brands. back in 2009, they were quite rare, pretty much all were either timing chain or accessory belt driven. That said, the VQ37VHR isn't an uncommon engine, so any decent mechanic should be able to replace the water pump. I don't live in NSW, so can't make any suggestions. -
I do not think that the return pipe could be the cause of your particular troubles, unless perchance it is leaking in a lot of unfiltered and unmetered air (assuming your ECU is still using AFMs). And then it could be very bad, but it shouldn't prevent you making boost. Blow then engine up from running lean? Sure. But it would make boost. You really needed to disconnect this thing from the turbo inlets and close those inlet ports off a year ago, and you should do it now. -
Pressure Ratio = 2. ie, 1 bar of boost (assuming 1 bat absolute pressure at the compressor inlet). This is relevant because compressor maps do not have "boost" up the y-axis. They have pressure ratio.
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Revisiting this thread again x2... 1 year later. This car has been an ongoing project between life. But, I never removed the re-circ pipe. I know, shame on me. But since then, i took it to get tuned and only making about 280hp (lame) and i'm chasing a boost issue where the car wont boost past 7-8psi. Mac valve installed. Haltech Platinum pro with the map sensor. This is the first time i've tackled the turbo side of things, but i have that side somewhat taken apart to chase the waste gate vacuum lines. And noticed this stupid pipe again. I'm peicing together the puzzle and @GTSBoy mentioned that it was a big vaccuum chamber and said a bunch of car math stuff that I couldn't quite follow the car math (im trying). You guys think this would be the culprit? between rotting vacuum hoses? i'm making a DIY boost leak tester this weekend. -
What is PR2?
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