Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

4ws (4 wheel steering.)

But it's a little different.

I think that below 60 or 80KM/h the, when you turn the steering wheel to the left, the rear wheels go in the opposite direction.

Above that speed (say like on a motor way) the rear wheels turn in the same direction as the fronts.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3293-what-is-hicas/#findComment-55555
Share on other sites

The rears don't turn as much as the front.

It is a very tiny amount..

It is almost impossible to see but when you drive and turn a corner or change lanes on the road, you sort of feel like it floats .... very unsettling when you first drive a car with HICAS.

The old Honda Preludes had 4WS but the rears on those turned heaps..

HICAS (on the R32 skyline is the only one that I can say cause that's what I have) is different.. it is not as noticible.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3293-what-is-hicas/#findComment-55571
Share on other sites

HICAS only comes into affect above 80KM/h. It helps the car turn in better into corners. It only turns 1 degree in which ever direction the front wheels are turning. So it's not visable like the Prelude or MX6 4WS. Also there is no mechanical link between the front steering shaft and the rear, unlike the Prelude or MX6. It's pretty much software controlled.

However for maximum handling, and for those who know what their doing, removing the HICAS is better as it gives a more consistant handling.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3293-what-is-hicas/#findComment-55590
Share on other sites

HICAS stands for High Capacity Actively controlled Suspension.

It's designed to make high speed (above 180km/h:) ) handling better, it only turns the wheels a maximum of 1 degree and only works above 80km/h.

It works on the idea of rally driving, it actually gives the rear wheels a twitch of counter steer before turning the same way as the front wheels.

On my Zed it's hydraulically controlled, later ones went electric.

I've removed mine and have noticed no difference whatsoever in the handling

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3293-what-is-hicas/#findComment-59282
Share on other sites

ok i dont really think it's worth all that effort to take it off if you can't really notice it..

I have noticed lately that sometimes when i chuck the car into a corner n try to get it to slide it will jsut start spinning the inside wheel rather then flick out like it used to..

Anywone have/had this problem???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3293-what-is-hicas/#findComment-60519
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...