Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am just doing some research, i have access to a vg30de engine in mint condition and i wanted to know if anyone has ever attempted to put this engine in a cefiro (a31). if this has been done what issues do you face when doing this transplant. the reason i am asking is that i am getting this engine for half the price of a rb25det, based on what i have seen the vg30 is only 30hp less than the rb25, so the savings might just be worth the 30 less hp. any ideas on this?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/330218-vg30de-in-a-cefiro/
Share on other sites

There's one on CarDomain with a Z32 VG30DETT setup in there.

LINK HERE:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2587628

They're pretty heavy engines and use very very complicated vacuum and idle control setups....with that said, they're just over half the length of an RB, so better handling and weight balance, depending on their intake setup, they usually rev up alot quicker than RBs as well.

(EDIT: on that note...they're not too heavy, around 170-200kg I think...I've got a block here, I rolled that halfway down the driveway by myself, where as with the RB, no hope)

VQ is all alloy so you dont even need a crane to put the motor in, 2 person lift, but if you want VG I'd suggest you go forced induction.

Best VG option is to get the VG30DE and add turbo's, so you have higher compression, and don't worry about internals, VGs will happily support over 1000+ horsepower with their stock internals all day.

I know Z32 5 speed manual gearboxes can go into a Cefiro on a modified S13 crossmember., not sure about mounting the motor.

It's a tight fit, so consider heat (ie steering rack), also consider maintainence......to change turbo's on a Z32 is an engine out job, so any mods you have planned, you'll want to do BEFORE it goes in, and make sure you spend some cash supporting the mods so they don't fail.

25876280003_large.jpg

Edited by Nic_A31

Thanks guys, i really had my heart set on the rb25det but its just that i was getting the vg30de for half the price of the 25. so i would do some more research before making up my mind. i kind of like the idea of doing something different if you know what i mean, but if its going to be 2 nuch work then i would go with the 25. would let u know how it turns out

thanks again

"different" isn't always good, man!

and same way - good... isn't always different

VG30DE is a very tired engine, every dollar you save by getting a VG30 instead of an RB25 will be spent on custom fabrication and breakdowns

also

think how EASY it is to replace parts on RB25 now?

(should something go wrong)

trust me - save your money, be patient, and get the RB

would tail shaft be the same?

I would of thought the tail shaft woul dbe different.

VG30De = too hard basket

As some one has stated above. It will cost more to put the VG in then it would a RB25. Custom everything for the VG. RB25 will go in with minor mods.

i think i would hold out for the rb25 (neo), thanks for the input guys

:D

yeah, if you were going to consider the VG30 because it was cheaper, then I'd recommend looking at SR20.

I just put one in mine and couldn't recommend it more often.

really? , i've heard mixed reports about sr in cefiro/laurel (versus rb25) , honestly , i don't know what the big problem with the baby rb is? rev all day , take lots of punishment and sound reasonable ;) , lag is an issue if your used to big capacity engines i suppose?

*ahem*

i have something i've prepared to say...

...i have had cefiro for six years. been RB20DE+T for 4 years. never had a problem with it.

engine still retains free rev. engine still retains high compression (which i think combats lack of torque) and because i went purely for standard (small) RB20 turbo bits and only mod being the R34 SMIC - my car runs GREAT

boost hits about 2.5K (or i think - it's VERY VERY early in the power band)

it's VERY responsive

it's VERY quick

it sounds more angry than 20DET

everyone that's come to buy my car has test driven it and has said that under acceleration it's FAR more impressive than a standard RB20det, (i wouldn't know i have never driven one)

but yeah

personally i think RB is the best option for cefiro - i never defend it cos when i do i get flamed

but personally - my engine runs EXCELLENT. it has been known to slay R33 rb25det, so i'm over the moon about that.

I've got nothing against the 20 or the 25. My suggestion was that if he was considering a VG swap simply because of the cost factor, then it would be worth looking at an SR swap due to it being a lot simpler (compared to the VG).

What about instead of the RB25, put an RB30 bottom end with a 25 head.

Correct Conrad, why are engines so expensive in Trinidad, i was getting the vg30 for 6,000.00 where the rb25det would cost approx 12,000.00 and the rb25det neo goes for about 15,000.00. the sr20 would be around 12,000.00. don't even talk about rb26dett they would be 20,000+, its been a little while since i have gone looking for an engine but last yr when i decide to not fix the signgle cam and go turbo these were the prices i was getting. So i am not sure what the current prices are, but the longer i stick is the more expensive it becomes

*ahem*

i have something i've prepared to say...

...i have had cefiro for six years. been RB20DE+T for 4 years. never had a problem with it.

engine still retains free rev. engine still retains high compression (which i think combats lack of torque) and because i went purely for standard (small) RB20 turbo bits and only mod being the R34 SMIC - my car runs GREAT

boost hits about 2.5K (or i think - it's VERY VERY early in the power band)

it's VERY responsive

it's VERY quick

it sounds more angry than 20DET

everyone that's come to buy my car has test driven it and has said that under acceleration it's FAR more impressive than a standard RB20det, (i wouldn't know i have never driven one)

but yeah

personally i think RB is the best option for cefiro - i never defend it cos when i do i get flamed

but personally - my engine runs EXCELLENT. it has been known to slay R33 rb25det, so i'm over the moon about that.

YEP. High compression + some mild boost = early power delivery and excellent torque at low RPMs - power always on tap - minimal lag - best combination for day-to-day and highway cruising. (similar style to the Euro turbo cars ie. BMW 335)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
×
×
  • Create New...