Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

WHAT THE???? we just finished install my manual and we took it for a drive and its f*&!*$# awesome!!! but when we came back we found that oil was leaking from somewhere... my car is a gts4 so keep in mind the 4WD stuff. it seemed to be a red liquid but after tightening everthing under the transfer case and checking everthing we found that the oil was coming out of the top of the gearbox where the gearstick is... now does anyone have any ideas on what the hell is going on??? is it too much oil or what because the gearbox feels perfect. it selects gears fine changes fine but as soon as you get under it in second the oil starts the stray up into the car :thumbdwn: :D:D:D NOT COOL!

anyone got any ideas. we just thought it has too much oil and its just getting rid of it but the oil colour is red so .... i don't know. the car isn't being driven until we get this figured out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33074-oil-coming-up-through-gearstick-help/
Share on other sites

I think it was about 3.7 lt or something..

If I remember right, it has a breather pipe that bolts to one of the top bolts that holds the gearbox to the motor. Do you remember seeing the breather pipe?

With the oil level, with the car on flat ground, just fill it up untill it starts coming out of the filler hole.

J

the box wouldn't go in cos of the spiggot bearing was too big on the inside diameter. so we did something really dodgy. we got another bearing to get the inside diameter found a drill bit that size... $38 later. then drilled out the one that was in there to that size. we actually did i good job of it. looked perfect and there are no noise's or anything.

Lol, that is dodgy man.... did you take measurements of the bearing so that you could get another one so when the current one fails you have you new one to go in?.... thats what I would do, as soon as it gets a bit noisy, change it asap.

ok guys we actually drained the transfer case and found there was about 4 - almost 5 litres in there... NOT GOOD.. we put the 2L that it needs and off its goes. and 4WD launches are so much fun!!! :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...