Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/prod641.htm

I might order one of these tomorow what yas think of price and size I don't care about lag

Do not buy that one.

If you are going down the route of a GT3076 then you will need a T3 flanged (not T25 SR20 type exhaust flange).

I would sit down and have a really good think about what you want out of a turbo before acting as you will save money in the long run by thinking it through.

I am not a fan of the turbine housings that bolt up to the stock dumps as I have never seen them allow the full potential of a 76mm compressor.

If you go down the path of a complete Garrett unit then you need to consider dump, oil/water lines, intake changes and you will need new injectors even with the correct HPIAB GT3076 with T3 flange there are still issues with oil/water line and intake changes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331132-wtf/page/2/#findComment-5379999
Share on other sites

If you're thinking of that exact one in the link, then don't do it. It's in a T25 flange and is made to fit SR engines.

Look for one that is in T3 flange :D

Edit: Dammit, beaten :)

Edited by d1_drifter
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331132-wtf/page/2/#findComment-5380002
Share on other sites

i no its not that one i need but morrie at from that place says he has the one for rbs and the oil n water lines arnt much of a hassle. and im doin the exuast to suit so that doesnt matter.

i was gona get him to fit it so he can deal with it but now i have the motor striped down i was gona do it myself and just give it to him to tune.

i want to spend about $1600 to $1800max just on turbo.

if yas wana thro ya sugestions down go for it. just remember lag doesnt bother me, so must be in the 30s

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331132-wtf/page/2/#findComment-5380071
Share on other sites

cars got 200wkw now with fmic pod no rear muffler and nistune set at 14 psi (droping to 9)

want to get 250wkw with

new turbo $1600

fuel pump $150

afm $200

exhaust$800

if injectors can handle it il do them later and what ever else to get 300wkw

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331132-wtf/page/2/#findComment-5380105
Share on other sites

Ild be happy with 270 to 280 if that's about all that turbo can make I'm just Gona run it at what Eva the injectors can handle for now untill I get more coin. The exhaust and other bits are Gina send me broke for a while

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331132-wtf/page/2/#findComment-5380898
Share on other sites

Trying to pay mortgage on one wage at moment so budget isn't looking good for injectors.

Has anyone got sum of that metal paste stuff I can steal so I don't have to buy a $50 tin of it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331132-wtf/page/2/#findComment-5381030
Share on other sites

You won't need the afm if you don't change the injectors. Save the money for your turbo - total installation costs will be more with bits and pieces. Also I think fuel pump will cost more than $150 and afm will be $300.

Just do the turbo and fuel pump for now. What are you using for boost control?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331132-wtf/page/2/#findComment-5381108
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • f**king around with the bro
    • Ludenham   44.2 tops day no issues  
    • Then today, I went to visit a man with an r33 hat Peter and Road and Race sorted the alignment. As it is being set up for general track/hillclimbs etc it has a heap of caster (7o), less camber than I am used to (1o front and 2o rear, as the caster looks after that in turns without the braking downsides), 3mm front toe out and 0 toe rear. Will see how that goes and track tyre wear to see if it does need more camber, but adjsustment is also limited with nismo arms and adjustable bushes at only 1 end. It does have a bent inner tie rod on the driver's side front but as it came up within spec I'll just leave that as is. So, that is getting close to my chapter of this story....could of tidy ups then a shakedown in early October before it finds a new home.
    • So, it went to Unigroup for a run in and tune on Friday, everything went (generally) well. In terms of fixes, the engine was good and there were no leaks. It needed plugs (I hadn't checked them because the coil pack cover was on a new engine and I couldn't imagine they weren't new.....but turns out the temporary plugs to just keep it sealed up were in there.....new plugs gapped to 0.8 and it was fine from there. Also, there was a little preload on the clutch slave which caused some slip. I haven't had the box off so I don't know what the clutch looks like; my guess it is brand new and the pedal had not been adjusted....backed that off a bit and it held fine. Last thing will have Dose crying....the idle especially when cold is a bit difficult between the cams, forward plenum, atmo blow off valve and an 80s air management system. It is fine when hot but a little uneven when cold, will see if I can sort or at least improve that one cold morning. Other than that, tuning went fine. It made 245 but was pulled back to 227 which 2 opportunities to improve in future. 1. The factory CAS is not great and was jumping around at high RPM, so Mark took 2 degrees out up top (that is why it stops making power and lost 20kw). Very safe this way and the extra power is available but will require a more modern ECU and better cam (or even better crank) sensor 2. The 2871 in factory housings is very big for a low mount, and the internal wastegate is too small, so it was creeping from mid range all the way to redline....the duty cycle on the boost controller is turned down a little for safety. That is much harder to fix, it would need a large external gate and that would require a whole bunch of other changes, so it will go as it is for now. It feels nice and healthy and safe, so should be good for about a billion laps like this.
    • what sort of caliper are they? If they are a slider and you gave everything a good clean, you might need to regrease the pins. My guess though is they will come good after some abuse as suggested above
×
×
  • Create New...