Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When i bought the car , the bloke said that he had the car on a dyno for 4 hours.

I was wondering how often a car should be dynoed, it was last on a dyno on 24/10 2001. My car is running great but VERY VERY RICH, which is supposed to be a safety thing.

Should i get the car on a dyno to see how things are or is it a waste of money & time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33131-how-often-to-dyno-tune/
Share on other sites

if it is running VERY VERY RICH, then that is sort of an over kill.

I think that a safe air:fuel setting is 11:1 or even 11.5:1

above that would be too lean for constant on boost type driving.

My R32 GTST was at about 12.3:1 on MAX load when on the dyno but it never had a problem cause it would only be on that for a few seconds at a time.

If your car is as rich as you make it out to be, it would be effecting performance, it would be fouling up your plugs and oxygen sensor and you would be getting SHIT fuel economy..

The way I see it, you have an R33 GTR.

It is worth what... over $40K??

spending $70 for a single power run on a dyno would show you HOW rich/lean your car is...

then I believe the most expensive I have seen is about $110 per hour for dyno tuning at like Croydon Racing Development (CRD) at Silverwater.

If you have a POWER FC or some sort of aftermarket programable ecu, then it wouldn't even be more than an hours worth of tuning..

I think for under $200 you could get your car tuned to perfection and still be safe.

As for how often you need to get your car dyno tuned, once it's set, you shouldn't have to retune unless you do another power mod.

say you went and got it tuned and then later found that you only had a cat back and got some dump/front pipes which resulted in some more boost and power, you would be wise to make sure that this hasn't put your A:F ratio out of whack...

NOTE: the above is my opinion.

Some people say that the optimal air:fuel ratio for a turbo car is 12:1....

But I personally would prefer to be a little on the saefr side of Optimal...

Hope that helps..

Pretty much spot on there GTST...

Don't expect to get your car tuned at CRD for any less than $800 though... That's their minimum cost... Jim is an excellent tuner, but quite expensive...

The optimum ratio for air:fuel on any combustion engine is about 12:1 - if you are looking for power.

However, if you run an engine at 12:1 you are looking at over-heating problems, which is why most engines run slightly rich, because with less air in the mixture the engine will run cooler.

You probably already know this!

Thanks for the info GTST, its running too rich , i've alreadly replaced the 02 sensors 2 months ago & i'm not getting too much above 200km city driving. When i give it in 1st gear, off the mark a big black cloud of smoke comes out about 2-3 metres high (like a diesel truck)lol.

The car has a lot of mods ( standard internals i think), it was taken to the HKS workshop in Japan before it got imported to aust & it only produces 245awkw, but it does feel quick, people on this forum seem to be getting that on stock turbos & with less mods?

I've got to take it to eastern creek for some times in the near future.

200km to a tank??

Jebus man...

you weren't kidding about it being rich..

I would definitely spend a few hundred tuning it..

that's not right..

I'd also recommend a spark plug change after the mixtures are corrected..

I think that on your baseline run, the A:F ratio's will be off the chart.. as in below the 10:1 reading that most dyno's are calibrated to.. (I think)

245kw at the wheels! I love rb26s.

If you're blowing that much smoke and getting such bad milage i reckon you need to have it looked at. Theres probably another 20kw hiding in there easy :)

If it is only blowing smoke when you put your foot down then it may just be the pump settings are out of whack and it needs a bit of road tuning to iron out drivability issues.

Still talk to a tuner, dyno time is a great way of seeing what your car is doing anyway so give it a go

"Don't expect to get your car tuned at CRD for any less than $800 though..."

My car (the magna, not the FD, obviously) was on the dyno for several hours (quite a few actually) and he charged me about $200... (actually, that covered install too...)

It was a sponsored car (unichip sponsored, among others) and I was giving him a good plug on my website though!

Nice guy - and a great tuner!

Definitely expensive - but you get what you pay for

It only blows smoke when i'm taking off & a few seconds after reving the engine (stationary). The dyno tuner said that he had noted it down when the car was last there.

He said that there was a air flow metre problem caused by a bad compressor surge. He said that some one had modified the turbo housing or the turbo wheel.

Where do i start to correct this problem. He said that he doesn't deal with those type of problems.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
    • Ha ha ha, so they stopped the bearings spinning on the one you want, but then decided the crank hub should slip instead 😛   Stick to RB, at least you can work on it yourself. And now it doesn't smell of vapour   Also I still believe there's a chance your new flap doesn't "pop", as even though the engine might breath hard, it has a direct path with no restriction to the inlet, which when on boost should pull a bit of suction for you. If you do get pressure in the catch can id be very intrigued. Time to put a boost gauge on it, and a session at the track, then solid cover your vent and do another session
    • Oh nah, S55 doesn't eat bearings, just the crank hub slips lol.
    • When’s the tow ball on the 33 coming? 🙃
    • I welcome any basic question that can help haha. Yes it has 2 unis but the driveshaft is a one piece and the unis are welded without a slip yoke at each end.   What's funny is anytime I've ever had wheel vibrations it's always been in the front so I automatically assume it will lead to steering wheel shake and not chassis vibration. With that being said, I never considered looking at my rear wheel balance... I have doubts though as this wasn't an issue before I pulled the motor and trans but is still very much worth a look. I'll do that tonight after work. Thanks. 
×
×
  • Create New...