Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

i've been having a few issues with the forum,

im looking for a holset hx35 or hx35w off a cummins diesel or iveco truck.

if anyone has anything, or can help with pointing me in the right direction of one i'd greatly appreciate it, and a finders/spotters fee will be paid

cheers John

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331519-wtb-holset-hx35/
Share on other sites

putting it on a petrol engine

For the love of god why?

I hope it's not a performance application.

Reliable, we'll designed performance turbo's are so cheap-

Precision turbo and engine have billet comp wheel, plain bearing performance turbo's for around 1300aud!!! If your trying to cut the cost on a turbo set up, by using a diesel turbo- you really should re-think the whole idea.

Diesel turbo's are generally designed for slow shaft speeds, to feed long stroke slow moving engines, whith low hp outputs for the size.

But hey, your going to do it anyway-

cheers

Justin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331519-wtb-holset-hx35/#findComment-5384717
Share on other sites

guess you haven't seen the holset thread then

quite a few ppl using them on rb's now and making good power

most ppl would say what you said xrated so they are cheap, few mods to the oil lines and plumbing and your away

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331519-wtb-holset-hx35/#findComment-5384995
Share on other sites

guess you haven't seen the holset thread then

quite a few ppl using them on rb's now and making good power

most ppl would say what you said xrated so they are cheap, few mods to the oil lines and plumbing and your away

well I'd better check out the holset thread...

Power is easy to make, but how long are they going to last and howmuch are they loosing under the curve?

Diesel turbo's are designed to work with less heat and much slower shaft speeds.

I still cant see how you could compare a secondhand diesel turbo to a comparatable second hand garret, PT, borgwarner, hell even an old air reaserch or a KKR turbo...

Better check it out.

Cheers

Justin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331519-wtb-holset-hx35/#findComment-5386236
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...