Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

First of all - sorry about all the posts, I dont know why it triple posted yesterday and why none of them can be read!

I have finished up my paint work on my bnr32 and now want to do the wheels. I have come across a set of 350z rims and think they'll look good on my car... The rims are 18x9 with an offset of +30.

What do you think they'll look like? Car the car is like this:

gallery_43534_3854_55265.jpg

gallery_43534_3854_64614.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/331666-350z-rims-of-a-street-driven-bnr32/
Share on other sites

Yeah I have thought about this. I do want to get a set of XD9's in 18x10 with a +12 offset but dont want to run them on the road every day... I do a lot of KMs a year so dont want a forged rim for everyday use...

You reckon these will sit more inside the guards than the standard rims that are on it at the moment?

XD9's are a cast rim, not forged. And most 350Z Track edition rims are exactly the same size front and back. It's the optional Rays rims made for the Z were staggered, and later model cars.

Really? The XD9s are cast? Well that opens the option of them up to me more... What are your thoughts JDM??? Will they look alright (offset wise)?

XD9's are a cast rim, not forged. And most 350Z Track edition rims are exactly the same size front and back. It's the optional Rays rims made for the Z were staggered, and later model cars.
Heres some facts , JDM Performance needs to study up.

All 350z track Front

Size: 18x8.0

Offset: +30mm

Weight: 18.19lbs

Tire: 225/45/18

Rear

Size: 18x8.5

Offset: +33mm

Weight: 18.62lbs

Tire: 245/45/18 and standard rims were staggered as well , the only 350z wheels that were same alround were touring !

Heres some facts , JDM Performance needs to study up.

All 350z track Front

Size: 18x8.0

Offset: +30mm

Weight: 18.19lbs

Tire: 225/45/18

Rear

Size: 18x8.5

Offset: +33mm

Weight: 18.62lbs

Tire: 245/45/18 and standard rims were staggered as well , the only 350z wheels that were same alround were touring !

And here's one right back at ya buddy.

Early model 350Z Track runs on EXACTLY the same sized rims front and back, like I mentioned before. They are 18x8+30 all round. However they ran different sized tyres. This is what they look like.

wynn070516-img600x450-12422194616lczua98060.jpg

It was not until 2005 when they released the Anniversary edition 350Z Track that had staggered rims. And they were 18x8+30 fronts, 18x8.5+33 rears. Subsequent models ran on the same Anniversary rims. Here's what they look like.

mu_ac11-img600x448-1280232330v72vrj38688.jpg

And you are arguing with someone who not only sells rims as a business, but even owned a 350Z 2003 track model, with the very same rims as the first picture.

And just another point you mentioned about the 17" rims being the same sized F & R? Well they are not..

You may have most likely researched your findings through an American site. And to be frank, I don't blame you because their 350Z versions and how they interpret Touring/Track/Anniversary cars are completely different to our Oz models. And that's a fact.

So enough with arguing, let's just move on shall we? :whistling:

Really? The XD9s are cast? Well that opens the option of them up to me more... What are your thoughts JDM??? Will they look alright (offset wise)?

Those XD9 you mentioned will stick out slightly of the guards of an R32 gt-r, but can make them fit by running camber and/or a bit stretched tyres. They're a very nice looking rim and a much cheaper option than say, TE37 or CE28N, which look very similar to (the CE's that is)

Here's the optional Rays wheels you can buy from Nissan when the 350Z were still available, staggered sizes like the Anniversary rims, BUT you can also choose to have them the same sized front and back, if you wish. It was your choice. They were a $5k addition to the price of the car, and you had to give up the standard track rims. Pretty average looking but they were forged monoblocks and extremely light.

partsoffget-img415x236-1223628159reoqqj49436.jpg

And here's one right back at ya buddy.

Early model 350Z Track runs on EXACTLY the same sized rims front and back, like I mentioned before. They are 18x8+30 all round. However they ran different sized tyres. This is what they look like.

wynn070516-img600x450-12422194616lczua98060.jpg

It was not until 2005 when they released the Anniversary edition 350Z Track that had staggered rims. And they were 18x8+30 fronts, 18x8.5+33 rears. Subsequent models ran on the same Anniversary rims. Here's what they look like.

mu_ac11-img600x448-1280232330v72vrj38688.jpg

And you are arguing with someone who not only sells rims as a business, but even owned a 350Z 2003 track model, with the very same rims as the first picture.

And just another point you mentioned about the 17" rims being the same sized F & R? Well they are not..

You may have most likely researched your findings through an American site. And to be frank, I don't blame you because their 350Z versions and how they interpret Touring/Track/Anniversary cars are completely different to our Oz models. And that's a fact.

So enough with arguing, let's just move on shall we? :D

Sorry mate , i first realised they were different offsets when i took my own rims off my track version and measured them for myself ,i was surprised , but you must know better !!!

  • 4 weeks later...
And here's one right back at ya buddy.

Early model 350Z Track runs on EXACTLY the same sized rims front and back, like I mentioned before. They are 18x8+30 all round. However they ran different sized tyres. This is what they look like.

wynn070516-img600x450-12422194616lczua98060.jpg

It was not until 2005 when they released the Anniversary edition 350Z Track that had staggered rims. And they were 18x8+30 fronts, 18x8.5+33 rears. Subsequent models ran on the same Anniversary rims. Here's what they look like.

mu_ac11-img600x448-1280232330v72vrj38688.jpg

And you are arguing with someone who not only sells rims as a business, but even owned a 350Z 2003 track model, with the very same rims as the first picture.

And just another point you mentioned about the 17" rims being the same sized F & R? Well they are not..

You may have most likely researched your findings through an American site. And to be frank, I don't blame you because their 350Z versions and how they interpret Touring/Track/Anniversary cars are completely different to our Oz models. And that's a fact.

So enough with arguing, let's just move on shall we? :D

I have a set on my car - track rims the forged Rays ones. They are 8" +30 front, 8.5" +33 rear. Same fitments as anniversary. No need to measure - it is stamped on the inside of the wheels.

Edited by simpletool
  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...