Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone apologies if this has been asked but ive searched and had a bit of conflicting info!!

Ive got a 2005 Manual Coupe and im wondering how i find out if its a rev up or not.

Some infomation ive found is you can tell by the redline. 6500 - Non Rev Up 7000 - Rev Up. Well my redline is 6800 :P

Also on my dash ive got Rev illuminated,which some sites have said this is only on rev up motors,but some say its just for a shift change light.

Im looking at buying a supercharger from the states and would appreciate someone with a bit more knowledge than me to confirm and if ill have any problems with the kit.

Thanks in advance

Spenny

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/332350-rev-up-or-not-rev-up/
Share on other sites

Thanks guys!!

Just one last question then. The guy selling the supercharger says his is for a non revup. Is there any difference in ours to the states in terms of fitting a supercharger???

Thanks again

I believe that the answer you are looking for is in the engine designation prefix, i.e. VQ35DE - non rev-up and VQ35HR being the rev-up version, HR standing for high rev.

p.s. This is only a theory of mine, so if I'm wrong can someone please correct me. :woot:

Hi Thanks for the quick replies.

Im looking at a procharger kit!! Any feedback is appreciated as im still unsure what way to go.

Thanks

Spenny

It should fit, but with Procharger just be aware that it's going to be really loud and whiney. If you're OK with that then it's also reputed to have very good power potential. The other thing to make sure of is that you have proper control of timing and fuel. In order to get a safe and reliable set-up you will also need injectors (480cc minimum) and a fuel pump.

Some kits come with split-timing boxes and do the extra fuelling with an extra injector in the intake tract. Not ideal but it can work...sometimes. Anyway good luck with your install, supercharged VQs are heaps of fun...

Also on my dash ive got Rev illuminated,which some sites have said this is only on rev up motors,but some say its just for a shift change light.

It has taken me a year and a half and I only just discovered the shift light on the weekend. It has always been set at 8000 and therefore has never lit up, so after filling with fuel and resetting my trip, I tried to work out what the 8,000 things was. Messed around and managed to change it to 2000 thinking it was some sort of service interval setting and drove off only to find the light start flashing at 1500 and solid at 2000.

It was pretty exciting there for a few minutes, now I've set it back to 6000 and probably wont see it again for 6 months :blink:

Yeah i found it too,i think i lasted 5 gear changes and i was changing it back to 6000 also. Wish i could get rid of the rev illuminated.

It has taken me a year and a half and I only just discovered the shift light on the weekend. It has always been set at 8000 and therefore has never lit up, so after filling with fuel and resetting my trip, I tried to work out what the 8,000 things was. Messed around and managed to change it to 2000 thinking it was some sort of service interval setting and drove off only to find the light start flashing at 1500 and solid at 2000.

It was pretty exciting there for a few minutes, now I've set it back to 6000 and probably wont see it again for 6 months :action-smiley-069:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...