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Rb30 Transplant Almost Going

busboy
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busboy Apprentice

busboy

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Posted (edited)

Well my RB30 transplant into a toyota coaster is nearly done. The basic mechanicals and plumbing have been done, and I'm pretty happy with the results. A few niggles like finding a better spot for the fuel filter and charcoal cannister, plus some neater radiator hoses are on the wish list for now.

Now I am at the electricals stage.

What I have done is pull the complete wiring loom from the donor 88 Skyline (auto), including the ECU and trans computer. I spent a good day and half teasing out all the wires and I have been left with all of the loom from the ECU to the engine pretty well intact. The loom from the ecu to the fusebox, instrument cluster and ignition switch is very minimal, basically I am HOPING I don't need all the extra stuff connected.

So, I used one of the many very good forum pinout diagrams on the ECU to trace the wiring for ECU. The fuel pump is directly connected to pin 108, this seems to be the way with the Nissan, unlike the VL commodore which seems to need a relay. (The fuel pump is the original pump from the skyline, I've just modified my bus fuel tank to take the pump assembly)

I've connected constant 12V to the wire that feeds the ECCS green relay which in turn seems to feed 12V into pin 114 on the ECU. I've got the ignition going to pin 34, and the various earths all seem connected.

I have cheated in a few areas, and these may be a problem. I have used my original starter motor circuit from the bus, as it was already there and in exactly the right place, so I am not using the starter inhibitor on the auto trans yet (but I will later when everything is going properly, starting an auto in gear is a recipe for trouble.) There seems to be an input on the ECU pin 9 labelled start signal input, and that is currently floating.

Now, when I feed power to the ignition pin 34, I get a nice satisfying click from the green ECU relay, and the red and green LEDs light up and stay lit. However, if I crank the engine over, it spins nice and fast but it does not so much as kick, PLUS, at no point does the fuel pump turn on. (It was late and I have not checked if I got a spark or pulse to the injectors either, once I realised the fuel pump was not going, I decided to stop and double check things.

So I set the ECU to diagnostic mode and I get three diagnostic codes, 23, 24 and 31, labelled Idle Switch, Neutral Switch and Air Conditioner.

Now, I suppose the neutral switch might normally stop the engine starting, (though that would prevent you from push starting the manual and I see even the manual model has the neutral switch in the circuit diagram), but I can not work out if it should be earthed or fed 12V to mimick being in neutral.

Also, it seems odd that the fuel pump is not starting (I tested it on direct 12V and runs like a rocket.)

Can anyone shed any light on the problem? Should the fuel pump come on or is it waiting for an indication that the engine is turning over? Should both LEDs be lit in non-diagnostic mode.

Are any of those error codes a show stopper?

Does anyone know an auto sparkie in Adelaide who is familiar with this ECU and does house calls?

Thoughts really appreciated.

Matthew

Edited by busboy
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