Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Since I can't sell my car for the price I want it for, I'm going to return it to stock and sell it and whatever price people are willing to pay for it.

So....... I'm going to sell my aftermarket parts provided you trade in your stock parts all in one go.

I'm after $3300 for the above with your stock parts traded in, big saving, think about how much these parts WOULD cost.. You're going to save $650!

$1300 - PowerFC & Hand Controller (have original box & manual)

$500 - PowerFC Boost Kit (have original box & manual)

$1200 - HKS 2535 Turbo with Braided Lines

$400 - Splitfire Coil Packs for Series II RB25DET

$200 - Z32 & Plug

$350 - 6x S15 450cc Injectors

Of course I would require:

- stock turbo

- stock turbo lines

- stock coil packs for Series II RB25DET

- stock afm

- stock afm plug (you're gonna chop yours off anyways to use Z32

- stock boost solenoid

- stock injectors

- stock ECU

We should be able to swap over the lot in under 1 day.

Location: Canley Vale / NSW

Comments: Will Sell as package only, and firm on price

Cheers,

Johnny

Edited by johnnilicte
Hey Guys,

Since I can't sell my car for the price I want it for, I'm going to return it to stock and sell it and whatever price people are willing to pay for it.

So....... I'm going to sell my aftermarket parts provided you trade in your stock parts all in one go.

I'm after $3300 for the above with your stock parts traded in, big saving, think about how much these parts WOULD cost.. You're going to save $650!

$1300 - PowerFC & Hand Controller (have original box & manual)

$500 - PowerFC Boost Kit (have original box & manual)

$1200 - HKS 2535 Turbo with Braided Lines

$400 - Splitfire Coil Packs

$200 - Z32 & Plug

$350 - 6x S15 450cc Injectors

Of course I would require:

- stock turbo

- stock turbo lines

- stock coil packs

- stock afm

- stock afm plug (you're gonna chop yours off anyways to use Z32

- stock boost solenoid

- stock injectors

- stock ECU

We should be able to swap over the lot in under 1 day.

Location: Canley Vale / NSW

Comments: Will Sell as package only, and firm on price

Cheers,

Johnny

i can do coilpacks provided they are for the series 1 R33.. i can bring car around tomorrow morning since ill be in the area

EDIT - sorry didn't see you are only selling as package

Edited by NicsR33

Hey john, will you sell the Z32 + Plug ?

got Rb25 S2/ /R34 RB25 pink label AFM + plug to swap + cash on top

i know it says package only but its worth a shot.

Hey john, will you sell the Z32 + Plug ?

got Rb25 S2/ /R34 RB25 pink label AFM + plug to swap + cash on top

i know it says package only but its worth a shot.

Hi Mate,

I don't mind selling bits and pieces, provided I can get my car running.

PM me!

Cheers,

Johnny

Ideally I can swap Z32/Coilpacks/Turbo/Injectors and then ECU last... I have another club member in VIC who might want it, I see how that goes!

hey mate yeah still interested in the ecu and coilpacks but has to be for a s2 what series is the car

hey mate yeah still interested in the ecu and coilpacks but has to be for a s2 what series is the car

It's a Series II, 1998 GTS-t :thanks:

I'll call you tomorrow Abe,

Cheers,

Johnny

It's a Series II, 1998 GTS-t :thanks:

I'll call you tomorrow Abe,

Cheers,

Johnny

If you still after some standard coil packs for a series II let me know

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...