Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Riceline, in your picture you cut off the 4th connection, the one that goes to the PCV valve on the plenum.  It is on the cam cover juts down from the blue one in your picture.

If you open up the angle of the photo a bit so we can see the inlet plenum, then I can draw on your picture the choices you have for plumbing up a catch can.  Yes that's right you have CHOICES, there is not a wrong and a right. :P

Id be extremely interested in seeing this too, I assume itd be along the same lines for a GTR? Looking at putting one on, what would be the best way of doing it?

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Id be extremely interested in seeing this too, I assume itd be along the same lines for a GTR? Looking at putting one on, what would be the best way of doing it?

Exactly the same for a RB26DETT, or an RB20DET or an RB25DET or an RB31DET (in my case). But keep in mind there is no "best way", you choose whichever suites your requirements.

I call the choices :cheers: ;

1. 100% plumb back

2. 50% plumb back

3. Zero% plumb back

Anyway, more when the picture is up. :wave:

So what options do/dont u have if your catch can isnt vented?

I have a trust can which is basically hollow but looks cool.. not vented.. u know the one.

Whats the best option for say; 230rwkw or less, running either standard or hiflowed turbo, big intercooler, on 12psi constantly?

I think this suits alot of people...

Is this right?

Let's try this one, it's the open to atmosphere catch can;

The idea is to only have one connection from the cam covers as they are joined by the standard pipe. The PCV valve and the connection to the inlet before the turbo are blocked off. You can have a return (drain) to the sump form the catch can if you like. Don't T it into the turbo oil return as it is under a bit of pressure and the oil can run up into the catch can.

The other 2 options follow in separate posts. :D

SK doing it that way wont cause any probs to idling?Don't laugh but is the blow-by metered by the air-flow meter,coz after all it is air that has been metered.What i'm trying to get at but slowly :D is blow-by the same as air from a bov that is being vented to the atmoshere?

SK doing it that way wont cause any probs to idling?Don't laugh but is the blow-by metered by the air-flow meter,coz after all it is air that has been metered.What i'm trying to get at but slowly :) is blow-by the same as air from a bov that is being vented to the atmoshere?

Good question R31 POWER, but if your engine has enough blow by to cause idling problems, then it is not the blow by that you should be worried about. :spew:

Sorry for the delay, virus on the laptop :type:

This one I call the 50% plumb back, because half of the time (no boost times) the air from the catch can is being sucked into the inlet manifold via the PCV valve;

It is not my favourite, because you can still get a bit of oily air into the engine, but since it doesn't go in under boost (the PCV valve is closed then) detonation isn't much of an issue. At least you don't get any oil into the intercooler and its pipework.

The last is 100% plumb back, all of the air goes back into the engine. Some goes via the PCV valve, at times of no boost. When there is boost, it goes back via the inlet system, through the turbo, the intercooler and its pipework. :uh-huh:

The idea is the stainless steel wool, helped by the lower velocity in the catch can, catches the oil and removes it from the air before it goes back into the engine. This is the environmentalists favourite :alien: and is the easiest to get engineered.

SK,

How would you plumb it, if emissions were not an issue, as in a 100% race engine. Metohd 1, 2 or 3 ?

On the race cars we run open to atmosphere. We do run 2 pipes to the catch can and remove the joiner (standard) pipe between the cam covers. It's not really necessary on a road or combo car though, the one pipe does the job OK.

Hope that helps :)

So, would it be acceptable to plumb the PCV line to the catch tank, and leave the joiner as is, with the tank vented to atmosphere ?

As long as you block off the unused plumbing and fittings. I gotta ask why though? :confused:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...