Jump to content
SAU Community

1992 Subaru Liberty Awd Gx Newcastle Nsw.

jahn-15
 Share

Recommended Posts

jahn-15 Collaborator

jahn-15

Posted
Posted

Hey all today I have a 1992 subaru liberty gx awd for sale

GOOD POINTS:

Its dark green/black

Lowered lovells springs

Green Neons in boot

Kenwood headunit aux input

Kenwood speakers in custom made door pods

10" kenwood sub in box

2x 10" pioneer subs no boxes

All amp wiring and rcas installed with capaictor and second set of rcas

New alternator cost $320

New battery cost $100

Sony explode speakers in parcel shelf

Sports exhaust

Auto

283xxxklms

BAD POINTS:

I was driving allong and the harmonic balancer came off as well as the belts so

I went too the wreckers and bought a new one and chucked it on all sweet for

About a week or two driving along again and it starts running rough so I pull over

Too see what's wrong harmonic balancer is loose I thought that's strange so I get

It towed had my mechanic look over it this time tells me the keyway is f**ked and its

Thrashing out my harmonic balancers and its slipped the timing belt so I've bought a

Harmonic balancer and have a keyway lined up other than that just need too redo

The timing with a timing light. He also told me my rear left hand rive shaft has a bit of

Play other than that its a great car. Few scrathes and dents. I can get this all fixed at an

Additional cost if you would like haven't had time as I'm in newcastle and the car played

Up when I was visiting my mum in harrigton so that's were it stayed.

12 MONTHS REGO.

I'm wanting $1500 as is or I can get it fixed for whatever it cost me

Contact jahn on 0432163488

I have been as honest as possible but come and inspect it

Can't get pics up atm ill try too in the next couple of days...

  • 2 weeks later...
jahn-15 Collaborator

jahn-15

Posted
  • Author
Posted

UPDATE! have balancer and everything fixed now. but the air flow sensor is stuffed or ecu not sure dont really want too

stuff around with it my mechanic has done a compression test come back ok he said this engine has like 36 sensors so could be any

one of those just running a bit rough $1000 TAKE IT AWAY really cheap for a car with 12 months rego....

jahn-15 Collaborator

jahn-15

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Car is getting trucked back too newy and im going too fix it and bimp the price back up

Unless someone wants it as is may be able too deliver newcastle area

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
×
×
  • Create New...