Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey mate...just wanted to pass this through you and everyone else..to make numbers, it is alright i invite couple of other people (they dont drive skylines..they have fords and holdens) so we can have atleast ten cars? not sure if they say yes but i thought i better ask you guys first before i invite them..cheers

absolutely man, as long as they arent d*ckheads I have no problem.

I only have one mate who drives a nice vx clubby who hopefully is going to come provided his relative is going to be ok, the rest have no interest in cars whatsoever so yeh bring friends for sure.

hey everyone, im only new on here so i wouldnt mind coming down and meeting all of you. plus i want to se this movie anyway so thats a plus :D i might bring a couple of mates aswell. Hope to see you then.

Jack

hey everyone, im only new on here so i wouldnt mind coming down and meeting all of you. plus i want to se this movie anyway so thats a plus :( i might bring a couple of mates aswell. Hope to see you then.

Jack

More then welcome mate.

guys who are coming, im not sure on the discount this time, there has been interest, but no where near as much as last time so im not sure if we will def have 10 cars, sometimes ppl say they come and things happen, etc...I'll talk to my village guy.

we should have just around the 10 car mark...my mates should be able to come so there is couple of cars there...ill try for more...but if we dont get the discount, it doesnt really matter...does it?

we should have just around the 10 car mark...my mates should be able to come so there is couple of cars there...ill try for more...but if we dont get the discount, it doesnt really matter...does it?

Nah it doesnt, I just dont want to muck the village guy around as he is always really good to deal with.

giving him a call now.

Nah it doesnt, I just dont want to muck the village guy around as he is always really good to deal with.

giving him a call now.

we should be able to push over 10 car mark...

Edited by VSPECT
we should be able to push over 10 car mark...

yeah i rkn we can, dont think ive been to a meet with less then 10 cars

ill call a mate dis arvo see if he can bring his car along (commo driver) but his sensible

Ok I'm definetly coming I just got $100 for being a great grandson

GOOD GRANDSON!!!! "GET A JOB YOU BUM!!!!" lol...thats a thing from a song...lol...ignore that...lol

lol James.

Spoke to the bloke, he'll do it for 10 bux a ticket :thumbsup: all is good

everything will work out fine...dun stress...worry about your assignments more...lol...i hate uni life...luv work life...hehehehe

Don't need to worry about assignments as much for this week, smashed out a 20% assignment a 15% lab exam and a ton of study notes this week. feeling good :thumbsup:

+ my mate in the vx is coming so good for numbers.

Also, one small thing I forgot, the movie starts at 9:10, they normally start at 9:20-9:30 and that what I planned our leaving time on.

Based on this, we will leave about 15 minutes earlier.

DEPART AT 7:45PM FROM APPLE PEEL

P.s apparently there is going to be some rain tomorrow, so don't need to go crazy on the washing.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...