Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, i always thought there was a bit of a problem with my r33 s1 gtst but i confirmed it tonight. Ive had it for a few months now and its been this way since ive had it. It seems no where near as responsive as it should be, the power is there... eventually but most of the time it feels like im driving a 1.6L pulsar until the boost comes on.

The car is stock and tonight i took my mates 180sx out for a drive which is also stock.

WOW... His car feels so much faster then mine, when i put my foot down it actually goes somewhere, i feel so ripped off. I was in 3rd and the wheels started spinning, thats never happened to me in 2nd gear.

At first i thought my clutch was slipping but a mechanic mate told me how to test that and it seems fine.

Also the car seems like its going off its head, like its working way too hard at higher rev's, ive watched vids of stock r33's and they sound good at high rev's where mine sounds like the pistons are about to punch right through. The oil gauge never drops below 4kg per inch or watever it is either.

Any ideas?

Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/335666-r33-gtst-power-issues/
Share on other sites

The only way to know for sure would be to remove the turbo and have a look. Or possibly check the cat convertor and see if its damaged inside or has any extra bits in there. Im sure some of the guys on here that started with stock 33s would know more.

Ive never driven a stock 33 so dont know what they are like with stock boost and response. Mine had a TD06 with 245rwkw when I bought it.

how accurate is a digital Tacho? Ive got one in my turbo timer which is showing waaaay different to what the dash tacho is showing , could explain why at 4k in dash tacho it sounds nuts.

Firstly my understanding is the car is meant to idle at 650rpm? indash its showing idle of about 1000 rpm and the turbo timer is showing it as 1650rpm when i rev is a bit to 2k indash , its shown as 3k in the turbo timer tacho.

Mayve the car is lacking torque. What would cause this?

Edited by XeKayeM
wouldnt that effect the idle aswell though? because it idles smooth

Not necessarily. :P

You don't need to pull the turbo off to check the blades, just pull off the dump / front pipes.

Stick with the factory tacho, if it is reading 1,000rpm then something is wrong bringing up the idle (air leak) or you need it adjusted.

if the turbo timer is setup wrong then it will show your rpm being different to the dash.

as for the idle at 650rpm, that all depends on whether the air con is on or not, as well as the temp of the car. it will idle higher when it's cold.

for the power bit, your mates 180sx spinning the wheels in 3rd doesn't mean it's much more powerful, just has crappier tyres, especially if the car is stock. they also do feel a bit faster than a 33.

there are a few things you can do to find some possible causes of your issue. first, what rpm are you making full boost? with the stock turbo at 7psi it should be making full boost by well under 3000rpm. if it is higher than that then you either have an issue with the wastegate or it could also be caused by timing or fuel issues. secondly get a timing light and check the timing. if this is too retarded then you will have poor performance and advancing it a bit can make a world of difference. thirdly, if you still can't find any issues, take it to a workshop and put it on a dyno. this will tell you what power it's making and what the air/fuel mixtures are like. if the timing is fine and the AFR's are fine and it's making low power then more than likely it's just your engine that's stuffed. getting a compression test done would tell you whether it is or not.

it could be a few other things though. the cat converter could be blocked, the air filter could be crappy, the afm could be stuffed, the timing belt could've jumped a tooth, and many others. might not even be engine related. might be that you have brakes that are sticking on, or tight wheel bearings.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
    • Another vote for installing them and see how you go.  I mean, you already own them, why would you not fit them? 
    • I have had too many of those over the years, my cars have a toolkit or at minimum a cheapy multi tool thing because its too easy to be snookered by some stupid plastic clip that stops you checking the battery terminal isn't loose.
    • Basically, if there is a part# on the nissan catalogue, it is a genuine part. There is a thing called "new old stock" which is stuff made years ago but never sold (or landfilled), but it is super hit and miss what you can buy. Other than some expensive Nismo stuff there is nothing new being made that suits these cars. The only time to be a little careful is (mostly in the US I think, but maybe Japan too), Nissan started rebranding some cheap crap maintenance parts like oil filters as "Pitworks"; stay away from them, if you are buying cheap just buy whatever the local car parts shop carries The three part numbers have an explanation on Amayama: 0V005 is auto, base style 0V015 is manual 0V505 is auto, hectic momo branded ones, maximum F&F points there!
×
×
  • Create New...