Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well i've got a HD daiken clutch put in the other day with a help of a mate of mine, it was all aligned right, bleed, and otherwise adjusted so the grab point is nice.- although seems though the grab point is just off the ground. although i'm still getting a slight "brrrrrrrr" noise like its still engaged when i'm not on the clutch and even more noticeable when its jsut sitting there in neutral. Someone told me i gotta shorten the rod going into the master clutch cylinder. is this right or wot? what should i do so adjust it correctly so its not constantly rubbing and wearing out??

thanks

ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33614-clutch-help/
Share on other sites

Hi skypy12, did you change the fork pivot? Most of the Daikins seem to be designed for the GTR pivot, which is 18 mm longer than a GTST pivot.

Looks like this

R33 GTR Pivot

If you don't, the clutch is too low to the floor and you aren't getting full release of the clutch plate. The other alternative is a longer shaft on the clutch slave cylinder.

Hope that helps

PS, this is what GTST pivot looks like when it breaks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33614-clutch-help/#findComment-674506
Share on other sites

no i didn't change the fork pivot, wasn't aware of having to change it at all.

are u sure about a longer shaft on the clutch slave cylinder??........cos i asked one of my mates today and he said somthin about shortening it........though he could be wrong.

and btw is the fork pivot located near the clutch pedal or where? i don't konw too much about them, but thanks for the help

is there any possiblity that just adjusting the pedal will elimate the problem..or only to a certain degree????

and will the clutch get screwed up if i drive with it like this for a few day, not saying i will but just incase its not fixed immediatly and i need to drive somewhere? noise isn't greatly loud but can just hear it slightly if ya listen for it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33614-clutch-help/#findComment-674581
Share on other sites

u maybe able to get more travel by adjusting the pedal u have to have a look , like sydney kid said a longer slave shaft will do the trick also , if u shorten it u want have clutch at all .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/33614-clutch-help/#findComment-675983
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...