Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

97 R33 SKYLINE S2 - 40TH ANNIVERSARY EDITION

92000KLMS

RB25DET MANUAL

ARCTIC WHITE

15% BLACK TINT

JDM JISMO WINDSCREEN BANNER LOL

SHAVED S BONNET BADGE,40TH ANN SIDE BADGES,REAR BADGE

FACTORY SERIES 2 FRONT BAR

URAS TYPE 2 SIDESKIRTS

GTR REAR APRONS

NISMO CLEAR SIDE INDICATORS

DAMPER ADJUSTABLE KYB LOWERED COILOVERS

SLOTTED REAR BRAKE ROTORS

ROLLED FRONT GAURDS

18INCH DEEP DISH STARCORPS, 8.5 INCH FRONT, 9.5 INCH REAR

30MM AND 10MM SPACERS

STRETCHED 225s FRONT, STRETCHED 235s REAR

R34 TURBO,BIGGER REAR HOUSING

FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER

HICAS LOCK BAR

DRIFT BOV

POD FILTER

CUSCO STRUT BRACE

D1 SPEC OIL CATCH CAN

FULL TRUST 3.5INCH EXHAUST

BIGGER INJECTORS

BOSCH 040 FUEL PUMP

ADJUSTABLE MALPASSI FUEL PRESSURE REG

EXCEEDY HEAVY DUTY CLUTCH

TOLMI 2 WAY DIFFERENTIAL

REMAPPED ECU

NISMO SHORT SHIFTER

PIONEER HEADUNIT

KENWOOD SPLITS FRONT

ROCKFORD FOSGATE 6INCH REARS

KENWOOD 1000W MONOBLOCK CLASS D AMP

PIONEER 12INCH 1000W SUB IN BOX

BLUE/RED/GREEN/WHITE LED SPECO BOOST GAUGE

APEXI TURBO TIMER

BLUE LED DASH

BLUE LED CLIMATE SCREEN

BLUE LED CLOCK

BLUE LED PWR WINDOW BUTTON

BLUE LED FACTORY ROOF AND BOOT LIGHTS

ALLOY GEER KNOB

FULL 5 SET OF FACTORY S2 MESH FLOORMATS

ALSO HAVE FACTORY GEER KNOB,WASTEGATE,CAM COVER ETC.

Very well looked after grade 5 import,was imported with only 88000klms,only 94000klms currently,extremely reliable but with decent power.I dont have dyno sheets but i'm told is making around 300-320rwhp. Completely unmarked interior,body and paint are in great condition,engine bay is spotless,carpet is spotless,everything works,great aircon(though I never use it).

At the moment me and my wife are expecting a baby so im forced to sell this to get a larger more family suited car.

I would sell the car for around $15000neg with 6 months rego and rwc.Plates are not included.

May swap for real nice 4door r34 with mods, i dont want a stocker!

I'm located in Hervey Bay qld, about 2.5hrs north of brisbane.

If interested,pm or email or msg me.

0401228867

[email protected]

post-75302-1284429911_thumb.jpg

post-75302-1284429939_thumb.jpg

post-75302-1284429982_thumb.jpg

post-75302-1284430006_thumb.jpg

post-75302-1284430039_thumb.jpg

post-75302-1284430071_thumb.jpg

post-75302-1284430098_thumb.jpg

post-75302-1284430135_thumb.jpg

post-75302-1284430170_thumb.jpg

post-75302-1284430197_thumb.jpg

post-75302-1284430222_thumb.jpg

post-75302-1284430239_thumb.jpg

Edited by GHT70 R33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...