Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a set of gold 5x114.3 only drifteks for sale

3 of them are fine 1 of them i damaged on the inside edge of the wheel, it's been repaired but i don't think they did a very good job as it will randomly drop air

it's a bit of a saga but i could go tomorrow and get the tyre put back on it and it will hold air for 2 weeks fine then i'll come out one monring and it's dropped all it's air. it's been repaired for like 2 years now, it held air for over a year after i first got it repaired then i took them off the car for a track day and put them back on the car after i came out the next morning and it's dropped it's air.

in all honesty all it really needs is to be taken to a good wheel repairer and they will touch up the weld and it would be totally fine. <$200

they all have a bit of gutter rash around the edges but nothing bad at all

17 x 8 +35 and 17 x 9 +38 i think, offsets to be 100% confirmed tonight

i will have pics up tonight

Price: $500 - if you factor in say $150 (seriously won't cost that much i don't think, it only cost me about $200 to get it repaired in the first place) to get it repaired you get a set of rims for $650 that are in otherwise good condition

the reason i'm not getting them repaired is i took this as an oppotunity/good excuse to get some work wheels :]

0413377833

Edited by mystery_kid
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/336890-fs-gold-drifteks/
Share on other sites

drifteks.JPG

bit dusty but you get the idea, they're drifteks

repair.JPG

that's the repair, the inside of it needs to be cleaned up i think and you should be right to go

the black shit is from when i got the tyre put back on they loaded it up with beed sealer and it lasted for 2 weeks and then i came out one morning to the same result



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...