Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all, i bought this setup not long ago to put in my 180 but unfortunatly things have changed for me and if i can make most of what it cost me back ill be selling it up.

basic rundown.

RB26DET

sard 600cc injectors

tomei poncams

modded sump for rwd

unknown bottom end. can only be presumed standard.

Heavy duty clutch

loom etc.

$3800

T78 33d kit.

trust mani

hks 50mm gate

dump pipe

turbo looks to be in really good condition other than some slight marks on the comp wheel (run with no filter)

$2900

Power fc

Greddy twin intake

Z32 AFMs

fc commander

$1400

trust oil cooler kit.

sandwich plate etc all lines included with earls fittings

$800

i have other little things like stock ecu, a/c compressor etc.

nothing will be seperated until ive sold the motor/turbo kit.

cost for all of the above complete is $7600 firm.

post-29077-1284532170_thumb.jpg

Edited by boostd gem

interested in the turbo kit.

what power did u make with this setup at what rpm. do u have a dyno graph?

what is a t78 rated at horsepower wise?

thanks

julz

for anyone interested, this wasnt run without a air filter, so no worries there, it's just one of the air filter's was damaged so i didnt worry giving it to him. they were run with blitz twin pods so there is no issue there. I'm also pretty sure this engine runs oil restricters due to the oil pressure readings it was getting (always really good).

this engine is built for huge power, if that's what u want, then u cant go past this package.

Is this your old engine nisskid?

yeh mate, really strong engine, and the T78 was amazing, i didnt wanna get rid of it, but had to let it go as i was in too much debt because of it haha

i just wanna see someone get this and give it a proper tune, see what it can do, i lost the tune not long after i bought the car and was too retarded to work the boost controller, so it ran on a base map and 12psi for most of the time i had it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes the gear for the R33/34 is different, it is red and has a different number of teeth. My part didn't come with that gear though, so I don't know how many teeth are on the red one. You'd have to reuse the 260RS/R33 gear, as long as it's not destroyed.   Haha, as unfortunate as that might be it was working fine for about the first 1500km I've had the car for now.
    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
×
×
  • Create New...