Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got my track spec (uncomplied) DR30 that i have no time for anymore..

Rebuilt less than 2500kms ago with..

Forged pistons

Machined/Balanced bottom end

Light head work

To4E with external gate and screamer

Big injectors

Motec ECU

Made 200kws on its first tune since rebuild (has more in it)

Fresh Gearbox

Extreme Heavy Duty Puck Clutch

Locked R200

Hydraulic Handbrake

BRIDE drivers seat

Stripped interior (sound deadening, Carpet Etc)

No back seat

6 point bolt in cage

17x8.5 in mesh rims with good tread.

Or random 15/16's depending..

Plenty more but i can't think of anything else at the moment

Email: [email protected] for more info/ pics

Looking for 8k ono - will swap for a decent daily or something cool..

Only reason for selling i bought a GTR and work has the better of me time wise at the moment.

post-12877-1285142218_thumb.jpg

post-12877-1285142226_thumb.jpg

post-12877-1285142235_thumb.jpg

post-12877-1285142245_thumb.jpg

Edited by datto_boy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337823-dr30-for-sale/
Share on other sites

I have a set of those ................. 16 x 7 if you want them. Came off a Soarer and are multi drilled.

Cheers, D

There is actually 4 different rims pictured..

Swap for a 5.0l Statesman owned by a Mature Gentleman ?

PM sent..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/337823-dr30-for-sale/#findComment-5464881
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...