Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Just changed my clutch master cylinder on my r32 to a r33 master because i needed a shorter one for my engine set up.

Running a rb20det gearbox and slave cylinder.

I have bleed the lines and i now dont have enough travel in my slave to disengage my clutch.

Do i need to match the r33 master with a r33 slave??? or did i just stuff something up when i put the motor and gearbox in!

Did you adjust the master pushrod?

The master you have on it should work. You have not set it up correctly

As in the thread on the fork where it connects to the clutch pedal? i wound it all the way out so it would connect onto the clutch pedal.

Sorry newb at this I haven't done any of this kind of work on clutches befor, want to sort it myself

As in the thread on the fork where it connects to the clutch pedal? i wound it all the way out so it would connect onto the clutch pedal.

Sorry newb at this I haven't done any of this kind of work on clutches befor, want to sort it myself

Yes the thread on the rod that goes through the fork that attaches to the clutch pedal. If you haven't gone far enough, then it will be wrong.....if you went too far, then it will be wrong.

There is really no way to describe how to adjust it correctly (well there is but I'm not going to type an essay here as there's too much information)

What I can tell you is if the pedal feels like there is nothing there until the very bottom then you need to wind the rod out of the fork more. Or if the pedal feels like it has pressure from the very top but it still doesn't disengage the clutch then you have gone too far and are blocking the recovery port inside the master cylinder so it doesn't work how it should.

Learning is fun aint it. ;)

Yes the thread on the rod that goes through the fork that attaches to the clutch pedal. If you haven't gone far enough, then it will be wrong.....if you went too far, then it will be wrong.

There is really no way to describe how to adjust it correctly (well there is but I'm not going to type an essay here as there's too much information)

What I can tell you is if the pedal feels like there is nothing there until the very bottom then you need to wind the rod out of the fork more. Or if the pedal feels like it has pressure from the very top but it still doesn't disengage the clutch then you have gone too far and are blocking the recovery port inside the master cylinder so it doesn't work how it should.

Learning is fun aint it. ;)

Cheers mate got it sorted just kept bleeding and eventually got it yeehaar! Dosen't feel the same but at least it works. the clutch i got is really heavy so i guess its a struggle for it, its a OGR brass clutch, there a prety crazy clutch

Now i have another prob just took it for its first spin with another motor in and something went pop when under first boost and now the revs wont drop below 3000rpm! guess i'll have to put another post up!!

Thanks for your reply buddy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • KW only offers a set for the R32 GTR. Popular options are D2 racing, Ksport or Öhlins. I have a D2 Racing coilover set, though I don't know for sure which one.
    • Well, the good news is you have more than one very good option for new coilovers in and around your country. Worth the drive over to KW to talk about GTR stuff.
    • Fair enough, I am in no way a tire expert so I'm not familiar with all the terms and conditions. I'll definitely note down the AD09 to potentially try in the future. Rain is not too big of a concern for now as I will probably only drive in the rain when I have to. And considering I still lack experience driving the GTR I'd more than likely take it easy too. I have coilovers in the car but as I barely got to drive so far I never bothered to even check if they are adjustable haha. The suspension is almost entirely old and worn as well so I suppose when I eventually fix that in the future that would make a huge difference.
    • There's not a great deal to report here .... except ...... FOR .... LSD!!!  I bought a Quaife LSD from the UK and shipped it here .... Wish I'd just bought locally cause the shipping and duty was $700! But there were so many diffs used in the E90s I just wanted to be absolutely certain I was getting the right one so I spoke with a supplier in the UK who builds race cars and they have heaps of experience with the E90s.  I pulled the diff out which was seriously awesome - I've never done anything like that before, I must have watched 1000 videos on YT about it as well as consulting the Bentley manual. It was super easy in the end. The diff was delivered to the awesome folks at Hornsby Diffs and will be back in a few weeks. I also replaced the diff bushings with some Nolathane ones.  Really looking forward to getting it back and getting back to the track or even the skidpan.
    • yeah... the 13kg/mm springs weren't always in there, I had 10kg/mm but doing a few SMSP commanded heavier front springs. It's so good now going into T1 and T2, just need more seat time and real tyres.
×
×
  • Create New...