Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

my car wont start ;/

the starter motor was clicking and not doing anything so have replaced that and still nothing

the only way we got the car to start was by jump starting it and having a jump pack on the front while the other car was jump starting it , THEN it started

let it idle for 10 minutes , shut it off and nothing. wont start again just clicks...

the alternator was showing 11v on idle but went up to 13.5v when revved

could it be the alternator ?

i replaced it just over a month ago and put a new battery in so it would be weird for that to happen :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338332-r33-wont-start/
Share on other sites

The output from the alternator should be regulated at approx 13.4 volts but even a faulty regulator shouldn't stop the car from starting, unless the battery is already flat How many volts is your battery reading with the car off?

Battery might have dropped a cell or there's a faulty + - connection somewhere

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338332-r33-wont-start/#findComment-5467863
Share on other sites

The output from the alternator should be regulated at approx 13.4 volts but even a faulty regulator shouldn't stop the car from starting, unless the battery is already flat How many volts is your battery reading with the car off?

Battery might have dropped a cell or there's a faulty + - connection somewhere

battery is returning 12v when the car is off

have the battery on charge now to bump it up to 13v

just tested my mates battery on his r33 and it returned 12.7v when its off & 13.8v when its on idle

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338332-r33-wont-start/#findComment-5467919
Share on other sites

voltage reading wont mean that the battery is fine. if youve shorted anyhting out with the water in footwell thing its quite likely that the battery has dropped a cell and gone. chuck another one in there that you know is fine and see what happens...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338332-r33-wont-start/#findComment-5467988
Share on other sites

voltage reading wont mean that the battery is fine. if youve shorted anyhting out with the water in footwell thing its quite likely that the battery has dropped a cell and gone. chuck another one in there that you know is fine and see what happens...

have done that bro...

ive got had 3 different batteries in the car in the past 3 hours and same with every battery

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338332-r33-wont-start/#findComment-5467995
Share on other sites

Letting it idle for 10 minutes aint enough to charge a battery...

Just disconnect the battery when your not driving it so nothing drains it.

and when i want to drive it , get someone to jump start me while i put a jump pack on it ?

right :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338332-r33-wont-start/#findComment-5468017
Share on other sites

3 New batteries doesn't fix it (provided they're fully charges), not a battery problem, you've replaced the starter (with a new one?) , probally not a starter problem. I'd start chasing a connection issue.

1. Is the relay clicking or is it the starter/solenoid itself clicking?

2. If you connect your jump-pack/vehicle's earth to a point on the engine, and the + to your + jump point in the fuse box, does this allow it to start easier?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338332-r33-wont-start/#findComment-5468039
Share on other sites

and when i want to drive it , get someone to jump start me while i put a jump pack on it ?

So it wont start with just a jump pack, and it wont start with just jumper leads...

Jump packs on the front, so I assume the car is jumping from the boot?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338332-r33-wont-start/#findComment-5468046
Share on other sites

3 New batteries doesn't fix it (provided they're fully charges), not a battery problem, you've replaced the starter (with a new one?) , probally not a starter problem. I'd start chasing a connection issue.

1. Is the relay clicking or is it the starter/solenoid itself clicking?

2. If you connect your jump-pack/vehicle's earth to a point on the engine, and the + to your + jump point in the fuse box, does this allow it to start easier?

so confused right now o.O

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338332-r33-wont-start/#findComment-5468053
Share on other sites

So it wont start with just a jump pack, and it wont start with just jumper leads...

Jump packs on the front, so I assume the car is jumping from the boot?

correct.

only time the car will start is if i have BOTH connected (battery on the back and jumper pack on the front)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338332-r33-wont-start/#findComment-5468054
Share on other sites

The starter motor is just clicking, sort of like when a battery goes flat?

A starter will draw well over 100a when cranking, if any of the cable runs are damaged (by water for instance) and are not capable of delivering 100+ amps (high resistance for example) then you will see similar behavior to that of a flat battery.

Check the condition of the cable run from the battery in the boot to the engine bay, see what resistance reading you get.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338332-r33-wont-start/#findComment-5469212
Share on other sites

The starter motor is just clicking, sort of like when a battery goes flat?

A starter will draw well over 100a when cranking, if any of the cable runs are damaged (by water for instance) and are not capable of delivering 100+ amps (high resistance for example) then you will see similar behavior to that of a flat battery.

Check the condition of the cable run from the battery in the boot to the engine bay, see what resistance reading you get.

where abouts does it run?

ive got no interior in the car so theoretically i should be able to see it easily? :laugh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338332-r33-wont-start/#findComment-5469488
Share on other sites

so confused right now o.O

Lol. I assumed you were trying to jump start it from the battery in the boot, not the factory jump points in the engine bay, this would bypass the wiring from the battery to the starter, and eliminate it as a problem, along with your earths (by hooking the earth directly to the engine rather than the negative terminal of the battery).

Since you have done this already, and jumping it directly to the factory jump points doesn't work, check the lead from the fuse box jump point to the starter is in good condition and that the connection on the starter is tight (disconnect the battery before you try this), if this is all OK and it still won't start, your remaining options are:

1. The jump/pack leads you are using aren't good enough

2. The starter motor is faulty

3. The starter solenoid/relay/circuit is faulty (which can be checked by bridging power directly from your leads or starter main wire, to the solenoid switching wire)

4. You're doing something wrong

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338332-r33-wont-start/#findComment-5470061
Share on other sites

where abouts does it run?

ive got no interior in the car so theoretically i should be able to see it easily? :happy:

It runs under the car, from the battery, through the floor, across to the drivers side "rail", along the car, then to the fuse box and starter. It is protected by conduit, but under the car it's easy to identify.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338332-r33-wont-start/#findComment-5470066
Share on other sites

Lol. I assumed you were trying to jump start it from the battery in the boot, not the factory jump points in the engine bay, this would bypass the wiring from the battery to the starter, and eliminate it as a problem, along with your earths (by hooking the earth directly to the engine rather than the negative terminal of the battery).

Since you have done this already, and jumping it directly to the factory jump points doesn't work, check the lead from the fuse box jump point to the starter is in good condition and that the connection on the starter is tight (disconnect the battery before you try this), if this is all OK and it still won't start, your remaining options are:

1. The jump/pack leads you are using aren't good enough

2. The starter motor is faulty

3. The starter solenoid/relay/circuit is faulty (which can be checked by bridging power directly from your leads or starter main wire, to the solenoid switching wire)

4. You're doing something wrong

1. they start other cars fine so id assume they are right for my car ?? :happy:

2. replaced starter motors yesterday and still have same issue

3. where abouts is the relay for this? (im still a bit lost on how to bridge it etc :s)

4. more then likely !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338332-r33-wont-start/#findComment-5470070
Share on other sites

That's good news, but must be frustrating not knowing!!

oh man, you have no idea, completely doing my head in !!!

now im trying to decide if i go to drift school this weekend or book the car into boostworx to get some work done

probably gonna go with the 2nd option

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338332-r33-wont-start/#findComment-5479091
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...