Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Up for sale is my r33 gtr that I have owned for one year. Need to save up for a deposit for an apartment.

Well maintained, engine is silky smooth. No misfire whatsoever :/

Will post this up on Carsales if no interest from SAU.

Major service done June 2010 at Croydon Racing Development (please refer to attachment):

- Gates timing belt including idler and tensioner

- Nissan water pump

- New radiator hoses

- A/C belt, alternator belt, power steering belt

- Platinum spark plugs

- Compression test 165-170 all cylinders.

- New Splitfire coilpacks

- New Exedy heavy duty clutch

Also included:

- Kakimoto 3.5inch stainless steel N1 rev catback exhaust (nice and quiet until revved hard). Still have standard exhaust if buyer wants it.

- K&N high flow panel filter

- Two R34 GTR air flow meters. Still have old AFMs with soldering trick in working condition.

- JVC headunit DVD/mp3/CD player. Pioneer amp and a cheap sub in the boot.

- Speco boost gauge

- Tinted windows

- 20 inch Starcorp rims (came with the car when I bought it).

- Turbo timer with battery voltage monitor.

- Battery in boot.

Paint looks surprisingly good for a 15 year old car.

Serviced with Mobil1 0-40w oil and Ryco oil filters.

No major accidents.

No finance owing.

Long rego until September 2011.

For those wanting to REVS check just paste this:

VIN/Chassis number: 6U900BCNR33008984

Registration: GTR00W

State: NSW

Engine number: RB26057092A

"There are no encumbrances that match the quoted identifiers. VEHICLE DETAILS MATCHED WITH RTA"

Cons:

1. Air conditioner has a leak, re gassed it to no avail. Worked fine last summer.

2. Alternator was re-conditioned by CRD and currently overcharges up to 14.8 volts triggering the battery icon, voltage drops below 14V after 15 min of driving and battery light goes away. I was told by CRD that this can shorten battery life.

3. Window washer spray does not work ?faulty washer bottle motor

4. Front bar lip is missing. Fibreglass one being ordered.

5. Original cluster would be at 99,000km now, it had a faulty tacho so I replaced the cluster with a V-spec one off a forum member, hence the 'early' 100, 000km service. You can have the old cluster if you want.

SERIOUS BUYERS ONLY. Serious offers considered.

I have posted the above problems and I have considered all that in the price.

I am in the Condell Park area, NSW.

PM me with your offer, we can exchange details and arrange a test drive.

Asking price $19, 000. Negotiable.

Will put up more higher quality pics shortly.

RHside.jpg

RHsidefront.jpgcrd_receipt.jpg

Can't edit the post,

car also has a high quality alarm (3 point immobilizer) with two remotes. I will not disclose the brand for obvious reasons. Buyer can see for him/herself.

Cheers guys.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...