Jump to content
SAU Community

[sa]r32 89' Black

boBE

By boBE,
in For Sale (Private Whole cars only)

 Share

Recommended Posts

boBE Contributor

boBE

Posted
Posted

Hi guys, here Im selling my 89' R32 Gts-T. The car is in good condition and done 132,000 kms, got few mods:

Blitz Frontmount intercooler;

Blitz Pod filter;

Drift Oil cap;

Drift radiator cap;

Cusco Adjustable Coilovers;

Exedy Button clutch;

Adjustable Camber;

Enkis 17" wheels;

Boost Gauge;

Veilside Gear nob;

Car runs good & body straight never involved into any accident. Few minor issues:

Oil gauge stop working;

Horn doesn't work although it never been touched;

Air-con needs re-gas;

driver side door panel got scratch but not major might comes off if give a good cut-polish;

Im asking $7,400 and thats pretty firmed, as need to pay the bloody tuition fee next week so I put the price as LOWER as possible.

Do do not PM or sms if you keen a look please ring me on 0432 719 507.

Im livin at Ashford.

Thanks, guys.

Pictures will be up tmr.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338517-sar32-89-black/
Share on other sites
Freddie Contributor

Freddie

Posted
Posted

Hey all

Just so you all know I sold this car today to this person. He paid $6200 which is totally not worth it. This car is thrashed so bad.

here is the list of things that is wrong with it...

- Gearbox is nearly gone, Redline gear oil and saw dust does wonders to wining and grinding gearboxes lol

- Head is f**ked, valves need grinding and the hole head needs to be rebuilt.

- Turbo is on its way out, Im surprised that it even made it to the city and back

- power steering rack is dry and probably damaged by now

- All four coilovers need rebuilding. Just because there a good brand dosn't mean they don't wear out

- LSD is open Wheeling continously

- Radiator is broken and leaking

- Power steering pump is going

- clutch pedal is dodgly bolted in and after a few clutch kicks will fall apart

- CD player dosn't work

- Gear knob is being held on by blu tacK

- Rear wheel studs will not be able to be screwed back onto the threads as they are so badly damaged

- The brake lights don't work as the brake switch is missing

- The accelerator pedal gets jammed continuously

- The passenger seat adjustment is broken

- The car will not remain clean for longer then a day,

- AC dosn't work due to the servo being broken

- The front mount is MONZA not blitz

- The pod filter is crap no name brand

- Boost gauge dosn't light up nore read boost

There are many more things wrong with the car these aren't even half. Sorry Bo u

There is always goods and bads about a car and unfortunately this car has many bads, fortunally I hope that I have scared away and potentional buyers. This car is worth $5 as it needs ALOT of work. Dont waste your money guys and gals theres much better out there and I only paid $500 for the whole car and that was about 20 tyres ago and about 1000 drifts ago.

Cheers Bo u for deceiving me and being a lying rat.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/338517-sar32-89-black/#findComment-5470649
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...