Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

I was just wondering wat HID should i be using for my HI BEAM

H? ????K ??W (the brighter the better!!)

I currently purchased a V35 not to long ago and it came with HID's already

but where i live has no street lights and alot of kangaroos and rabbits,

so when i turn on the hi beams it does work but u cant even see the difference

as the low beams a just so bright...

Guys i need some help quick before i hit a kangaroo and write off my baby!!!

Had a few too close for comfort encounters already.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339291-hids/
Share on other sites

Hi Aaron, there is already a tread about V35 HID.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Hid-s-t338181.html

Have a read and maybe it might help your question. High beams in stock headlights are pretty ok at night. Just have to drive abit careful around that area, I think.

Good luck.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339291-hids/#findComment-5480793
Share on other sites

That only helps half...or maybe a little of his question.

if 2003-04 models all i know is main lights are H1 fogs are H4. stick with 6000k or less as higher K will emit less light. the high beams works from the H1s so make sure you get a genuine phillips bulb or equivalent so that the main and high beams are both bright.

reason being as before i spent only $200 on my H1 HID from ebay and ending up with 6000k but the high beam was yellow...fail.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339291-hids/#findComment-5481021
Share on other sites

thanks XTC,

do u think if i added another set of 6000k to the hi beam spot it would make a difference i just need the light to be clearer than now and while u guys a helping me out can i fit 20's on the V35 wit offset front +35 rears +40

thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339291-hids/#findComment-5483137
Share on other sites

Adding a 6000 k hi beam wud def make a difference however id prob go around 5000k. As u actually get more light.

With the wheels 20s r fine. Xtc has 20s and also one or 2 oders dat ul c at the cruise have 20s. my 20s are arriving shortly as well. However that offset of +35f and +40R is not wat u shud get IMO . try going more towards the +20-22 mark or bit lower front and rear . Otherwise they wont sit very flush and wont look guud.Also u have to consider the diameter of the wheels. Il explain this to u at the cruise iv made the same mistake as u wid my wheels and have learned by dat mistake :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339291-hids/#findComment-5485137
Share on other sites

cheers Steve that would be great i guess im gonna roll around standard for now and when i catch up wit u guys on the cruise u can

give me some advice on size, offsets and other things before i go out and buy the wrong things.

muchly appreciated buddy =)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/339291-hids/#findComment-5485751
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...