Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1996 R33 GTST - Series 2

The engine has been rebuilt in the past two months due to new turbo (ATR43). New engine has only done about 2000 kms.

The engine has forged ARIAS pistons, metal head gasket, all brand new belts including timing belt and new water pump.

The new turbo has done around 5000kms.

The car also has the following:

#All four Tein Suspension

#Genuine HKS intercooler

#K&N Pod Filter

#GReddy Profec B-Spec2 Boost Controller

#APEXi Power FC & Hand Controller

#3inch turbo back exhaust which goes into a 3inch high flow cat and that goes into a 3 1/2 inch genuine HKS super dragger

#Turbo smart blow off valve

# ATR43 TURBO

#Remote start/window lift kit

The car is pushing on low boost 200rwkw. On high boost it is pushing 260rwkw. I have the dyno charts for the car.

Things for road worthy - if brought without out one.

#Remove pod filter and replace with standard airbox

#Remove blowoff value and replace with standard

#unplug the hand controller from the power FC

IMGP2889.jpg

IMGP2890.jpg

IMGP2891.jpg

IMGP2892.jpg

IMGP2894.jpg

IMGP2896.jpg

IMGP2897.jpg

Picture017.jpg

Picture018.jpg

Picture036.jpg

Picture037.jpg

Car in excellant condition. I currently have a company car and have not drive the skyline as much as i would have liked.

about $13,000.00 has been spent on the car in the last 2 years. all work that has been done has reciepts and will provided to buyer.

$17,000.00 ono $15,000.00 with no road worthy cert

Contact: Koosh - 0409 408 990

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/340110-1996-r33-gtst-series-2/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...