Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

]mines actually on +5 on idle...(auto) and jumps to 20 when i rev out its a mechanical cobalt series boost/vac gauge i just tap'd it into the line at the front of the manifold like described in a step by step posted on here i know its wrong coz my stock gauge sits in the - and jumps accordingly.. post-84025-0-70170300-1306822304_thumb.jpg

Edited by nismo07

any idea's?

Hmm, not sure. I've always tapped boost gauges directly off the plenum itself. Never really tried to tee it off an existing line. It definitely should be reading somewhere in the negatives on idle though.

Edited by GT32

Hmm, not sure. I've always tapped boost gauges directly off the plenum itself. Never really tried to tee it off an existing line. It definitely should be reading somewhere in the negatives on idle though.

Was thinking maby trying it at the rear where the stock line goes in from the little box right near the brake booster? if i was to pull that off and run the gauge straight in be fine right? doesnt matter if i disconnect the stock gauge at all does it??

Hmm, you could be right. Possibly a faulty gauge. I used to have an Omori boost gauge on my old 32. The gauge looked ancient! Was a mechanical type and I remember it was always 1-2psi out. When I had the car dynoed a few years ago, their dyno chart always displayed 1-2psi higher than what the boost gauge in the cabin displayed. It was probably due to wear and tear though. Is the gauge you're using brand new or second hand?

Hmm, you could be right. Possibly a faulty gauge. I used to have an Omori boost gauge on my old 32. The gauge looked ancient! Was a mechanical type and I remember it was always 1-2psi out. When I had the car dynoed a few years ago, their dyno chart always displayed 1-2psi higher than what the boost gauge in the cabin displayed. It was probably due to wear and tear though. Is the gauge you're using brand new or second hand?

Brand new from autobarn was a cobalt autometer so thought it was quality rofl...

Hmm, could be faulty. Bring it back and exchange it for another one to see if it still does the same thing. I'm not even gonna bother using a conventional boost gauge this time around in my new car. Once my AVC-R goes in then I'll just rely on that from now on to show me how much boost I'm running. :).

also shouldnt the gauge reset to 0 when the ignition is off? it sits on 15+ ??

Sorry, didn't see this. Yes it should revert back to +-0 when the ignition is off. If it sits on +15 then there definitely is a problem lol.

definitely was the gauge lol... funny on the phone to them were trying to blame installation but once they actually looked at it they said "yea its stuffed"... lol dont know how it could be my fault when the needle resets to +15psi and wont go below 5+ anyways yea overnight delivery :)

kool on another note what should the boost be reading on idle?? -7 like the stock gauge?

Different units, the stock gauge reads in mmHg x100 for both positive & negative pressure.

Most aftermarket boost gauge will read in inHg for negative & either PSI or Bar for positive pressure.

15 - 20 inHg is the norm for idling pressure with the car stationary, anything lower than 15 inHg & you may have a leak somewhere.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • In the US almost everything is E10. It can't exceed 10% by much or fuel systems have trouble adapting. At the same time because MTBE, MMT, and TEL are all banned they need as much ethanol in it as possible to boost octane.
    • I was mostly jesting. In my experience (and probably only my experience) the R34 GTT physical airbox space is actually too small to flow the amount of power it wanted. By sealing the box, I made it so it could only be fed by the ducts themselves. So you can seal it up and get nice cold air which IS good, but at a certain crossover point: More Hot Air > Less Cold Air I don't think you're at this point. In my case merely ducting the hot air intake with a very focused set of ducts counteracts the fact it's in a V8 engine bay. More cold air obviously best. The solution looks great.
    • Nah, the OEM CAI pipe is still installed behind the bumper, it is about 5" x 3" oval at the engine side, tapering down to a 3" pipe behind the bumper where it gets all the ambient air it needs Engine side of radiator support OEM intake pipe "oval hole" that is right in front of the filter My OEM NC1 CAI pipe: From NC2 onwards, below pic, they come slightly smaller at 2.75" diameter with corrugations and a resonance chamber to reduce intake noise, lucky for me my NC1 has the bigger noisy one, LOL   Basically, the "sealed" airbox will just get ambient air from a 3" pre filter intake tube that is the same size, 3" as the rest of the intake pipe post filter, and if a 3" intake isn't big enough to flow enough air for 150 killerwasps then there are other issues The whole intake is basically the same length as OEM, but it is now about 30% bigger from the airbox back through to the new intake plenum than OEM, and the intake plenum is port matched to the head And the intake is now about 30% bigger than my 2.5" exhaust, so the suck, squeeze, bang and blow black magic should be fine, well, to my uneducated understanding of fluid dynamics anyway Talking the the guys at MX5 Mania, it may even make a few more killerwasps as the intake isn't sucking hot air, especially off idle or when in slow traffic when it would be sucking hot air  As for the difference in IAT, I haven't logged IAT yet, as I don't currently have a OBD2 reader, but I will have a play with my thermal lazer thingie next time I take the car out to sèe how hot stuff gets under the bonnet near the intake filter prior to installing the air box, my "assumption is it has to be much better after the air box is in and sealed up compared to what it is now The aftermarket "performance" CAI elephant in the room: Aftermarket CAI intakes typically have the air filter tucked up behind the bumper, with a 2.5" intake tube (the OEM intake pipe is actually about 30% bigger than the fancy pants "aftermarket" version.....WTF), and you need to remove the bumper to service the filter, which is a PITA Like dis:    
    • Nice one, I'd argue that the white S1 RS260 is certainly the best looking of the Stageas. And yes, fully agree on the forum situation. It's a bit of a shame, but at least SAU is a good place to be. I found the facebook groups to give me FOMO because people were trying to one-up each other and show off in some way. Feels much more natural here. There are people with seriously nice builds, but I can appreciate it rather than it making me question my life choices. Might be that people are more open with sharing how much work/money/suffering it takes to actually get there. 
    • Evening, wanted to pop in and finally register to say hi to everyone here on SAU!   It's been a while since I've been active on a forum, but back in the day I used to be relatively active on ClubLexus and other hobby-related forums. I'm glad to see SAU is still around, since with the advent of Facebook and Discord it seems forums aren't what they once were. As a recent new owner of an S1 260RS Stagea, I've found so many older guides and helpful tips from SAU that I figured I needed to join and say a grave thank you. My recent acquisition has only become legal in the US for the past year, and knowing that similar car enthusiasts from across the pond have already figured out the kinks and tricks to get these 25+ year old cars running well. I look forward to diving into more of the SAU forums as well as hopefully contribute some info myself for future posterity.   As a pic tax, here is one of the few good photos I have of my Stagea. I hope to get way more in the future!    
×
×
  • Create New...