Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just want to know if tx3's were a good car, as i was looking at gettin an r32 but it seems just to expensive and well im looking for a turbo, but i see this as maybe a steepin stone to a sky, just need to know some info on it, liek r they reliable? good power? anythin else, cos ive loved my civic cos its never broken down (touch wood) and has taught me alot in a yr about the running and looking after a car, so any help will be greatly appreciated,

you can pm me if u want...

cheers felles, n ladies

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34187-tx3s/
Share on other sites

the TX3 Turbo used a 1.8-litre engine with 117 kW of power instead of the 100 kW 1.6

This made the hotshot Laser the most powerful four-cylinder Ford sold in Australia.

The combination of a powerful turbo engine and all-wheel-drive transformed the shopping hatch Laser into an extremely competent high performance car with remarkably few faults.

On the road, the TX3 Turbo was brilliant. With fantastic grip and stability, it could outperform many far more powerful cars, as successes in production car racing at Mount Panorama demonstrated. Acceleration was always impressive, and in wet conditions the TX3 really distinguished itself. This model may have been expensive for a Laser but it was cheap compared with any other car with comparable dynamic prowess - a four-wheel-drive Audi sedan, for example.

The usual exhaustive checks should be performed before purchase but a drive around a supermarket parking lot will disclose any problems with CV joints. Listen for a clicking sound when on full lock (in both directions). Replacing all four CV joints could separate you from $1,000. The camshaft belt must be changed at 100,000 km intervals.

Unlike some high performance cars, the TX3 Turbo 4WD doesn't need to be driven with verve to deliver satisfactory results. Excellent fuel economy and the versatility of a hatchback are built-in attributes. Power steering makes parking effortless. And spare parts are mostly quite cheap because it remains a Laser. Being a Laser has its advantages.

Unlike lesser Laser models, the TX3 Turbo 4WD was built in Japan and build quality eclipsed the efforts of the team at Ford's Homebush factory where the overwhelming majority of Lasers were assembled and painted. That is yet another bonus.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34187-tx3s/#findComment-685452
Share on other sites

yes i think so. whats your civic put out?

power outputs differed with different year models. what year were you talking about?

i will go from the "October 1985 - September 1994" models

Ford Laser KC TX3 Turbo and Turbo 4WD (October 1985 - September 1987)

Engine - B6T

Fuel system - EGI Turbo

Valvetrain - DOHC 16v

Bore x Stroke (mm) - 78 x 83.6

Capacity (cc) - 1597 (1.6l)

Power - 110kW @ 6000rpm

Torque - 19.0kg/m @ 5000rpm

kc.jpg

Ford Laser KE Laser TX3 Turbo and Turbo 4WD (October 1987 - February 1990)

Engine - B6T

Fuel system - EGI Turbo

Valvetrain - DOHC 16v

Bore x Stroke (mm) - 78 x 83.6

Capacity (cc) - 1597 (1.6l)

Power - 110kW @ 6000rpm

Torque - 19.0kg/m @ 5000rpm

ke.jpg

Ford Laser KF (March 1990 - September 1991)

Engine - BPT

Fuel system - EGI Turbo

Valvetrain - DOHC 16v

Bore x Stroke (mm) - 83 x 85

Capacity (cc) - 1840 (1.8l)

Power - 117 kW @ 6000rpm

Torque - ???

tx3_10hi.jpg

Ford Laser KH Laser TX3 Turbo, Turbo 4WD (October 1991 - September 1994)

Engine - BPT

Fuel system - EGI Turbo

Valvetrain - DOHC 16v

Bore x Stroke (mm) - 83 x 85

Capacity (cc) - 1840 (1.8l)

Power - 134kW @ 6000rpm

Torque - 24.2kg/m @ 3000rpm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34187-tx3s/#findComment-685512
Share on other sites

Ford Laser KF (March 1990 - September 1991)

almost the same as the KE

except for a completely different body shape lol

91tx31.jpg

GTRboy...i used to love these cars!!, i almost bought one too as a "step up" to a Skyline, but the insurance was too expensive..

same engine as a Jap Mazda Familia...comes as a turbo 4WD or non turbo FWD...as said above, the turbo model has 117kw and pulls a 15.9 quarter mile.

just remember the up-keep will be more (being a turbo 4WD) and look out for one that hasn't been thrashed/rallyed etcetc, because most will have fairly high kms by now, and you probably don't want one that has had a hard life.

here's some more info:

http://carpoint.ninemsn.com.au/reviews/rev...ory.asp?ID=4003

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34187-tx3s/#findComment-685823
Share on other sites

I am still driving a Laser I bought brand new 19 years ago. I have had other cars, but still keep my Laser. It is a great little car, turbo, 4WD, and it is fun to drive, and economical to run, and parts are easy to find.

The only real problems are the engine is fairly small, and the gearboxes can give trouble if you hot them up and then thrash the daylights out of them. But driven sensibly the gearboxes do not give trouble.

As has already been said www.fordlaser.com is a good place to visit to learn more about these cars.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34187-tx3s/#findComment-685964
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...