Jump to content
SAU Community

Faking Import Papers.

KezR33
 Share

Recommended Posts

KezR33 Veteran

KezR33

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

On the weekend my mate and I looked at an Evo 7 with a claimed ~55,000km on the dash. The car had papers stating it was imported in August (auction sheet) and full log books of all services back in Japan. They all seemed legit, however they were in Japanese.

The car however looked like it had done 150,000km. Poor paint condition, brake paint had almost entirely faded, and interior looked worn. The gear knob was more heavily worn than my '95 Supra. The engine was also making a stranging clicking noise when the car revved, it was noticable only in the cabin. Outside the car, or even sticking your head in the engine bay you couldn't hear it.

It was rather dissapointing, as the car was dead stock, low ks and with logbooks to back it up. Is it possible the books were forged, or are some owners just really sloppy in looking after their car? Is it worth getting this car checked out by a mechanic? Everything about it screamed warning signs, but the fact it had all the books is so rare and IMO very important.

For the record the auction sheet said it was a 4.5 B.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342682-faking-import-papers/
Share on other sites
Iron Chef Grand Master

Iron Chef

Posted
Posted
Hey guys,

On the weekend my mate and I looked at an Evo 7 with a claimed ~55,000km on the dash. The car had papers stating it was imported in August (auction sheet) and full log books of all services back in Japan. They all seemed legit, however they were in Japanese.

The car however looked like it had done 150,000km. Poor paint condition, brake paint had almost entirely faded, and interior looked worn. The gear knob was more heavily worn than my '95 Supra. The engine was also making a stranging clicking noise when the car revved, it was noticable only in the cabin. Outside the car, or even sticking your head in the engine bay you couldn't hear it.

It was rather dissapointing, as the car was dead stock, low ks and with logbooks to back it up. Is it possible the books were forged, or are some owners just really sloppy in looking after their car? Is it worth getting this car checked out by a mechanic? Everything about it screamed warning signs, but the fact it had all the books is so rare and IMO very important.

For the record the auction sheet said it was a 4.5 B.

Thanks.

Yes and yes...post up the auction sheet if you have it there.

mattyneweraimports Proficient

mattyneweraimports

Posted
Posted
Wish I did, the guy lived an hour and a half away and I didn't think to take photos at the time.

If you have a pic of the auction sheet

Il translate it for you

Most evos are tappy

4 b grade should be ok

But it's still common to have that type of grade still not up to par

Iron Chef Grand Master

Iron Chef

Posted
Posted
Auction Grades don't mean jack anymore, unless its a 5A.

The classifications handed out at the Japanese auctions are loose and far from an accurate indicator of the vehicles actual quality.

That theory actually applies in both directions too - I've seen cars get lumped with a 3 that should've been 4 or 4.5, although normally it's the other way around :verymad:

llama_au Grand Master

llama_au

Posted
Posted
Auction Grades don't mean jack anymore, unless its a 5A.

The classifications handed out at the Japanese auctions are loose and far from an accurate indicator of the vehicles actual quality.

Exactly. The car I most recently imported was a grade 4.5 B. Think that rating was a bit too generous. It definitely isn't a grade 4.5 body and B is a bit generous for the interior condition. My grade 4 R34 a whole 5 years older at the time was in better condition.

  • 3 weeks later...
Triumph Motors Apprentice

Triumph Motors

Posted
Posted

I think grading system differs from auction to auction. My opinion HAA kobe has the strictest grading. USS 's grading has gone down the hill in recent years. BAYAUC is another good auction but the cars in good auctions are bit more expensive than USS.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Rb26/30 build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • MBS206
      Nismo rear spats

      By MBS206 · Posted

      No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Butters
      Rb26/30 build

      By Butters · Posted

      Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • GTSBoy
      Rb26/30 build

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • lilley's gtr
      Rb26/30 build

      By lilley's gtr · Posted

      I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...